Skrinkage Resistance
The ability for a fabric to retain its original dimensions after being washed
Tenacity/tensile strength
The ability withstand a pulling force
Thermoplastic
Heat-sensitive fiber manmade , when heated it softens and fusing, hardens when cooled
Hydrophobic
Have little to no absorbency
Resiliency
ability for a fiber to return to it's original shape after being bent, twisted, or crushed
Wicking
ability for a fiber to return to it's original shape after being bent, twisted, or crushed
Aging Resistance
resistance to harmful changes over time
Hygroscopic
absorbs moisture without feeling wet
Elastic Recovery
ability to return to it's original dimension or shape after elongation
Dimensional Stability
ability to retain it's original size and shape throughout care
Hydrophilic
absorbs moisture
Oleophilic
has strong affinity to oil
Elastomeric
having high elasticity, high elongation. Examples would be spandex and rubber and anidex
Crimp
When warp and weft yarn interlace in fabric they follow a wavy path
Insulation
The limiting of conduction and convection
Cover
Ability of a fiber to conceal and protect
Combed yarns vs. Carded Yarns:
Carded yarns are brushing the fibers to align them for preparation for spinning. Combed yarns are an addition to carding, but they further align the fibers to make them smoother and more uniform
Worsted yarns vs. Woolen Yarns:
Woolen (carded) short staple, fabric, not uniform, looser, does pill. Worsted (combed) longer, fabric, stronger, finer, more durable, and doesn't pill
Simple Yarns
Yarns where all parts are alike
Core-spun yarns
fibers being spun around one core yarn
Filament Yarns
smooth filament fibers, strength (depends a lot on the fiber itself and how many fibers are used), /uniformity (smoother and more uniform), textured bulk yarns (made into yarn and then crimped) --- man made fibers and silk
Denier
A unit of measure used to measure the linear mass density of fiber. Several filaments together are referred as a "total denier
Ply Yarns
Two or more single yarns wrapped together
Fancy Yarns
Simple or complex yarns ex. Boucle, tweed, spiral, or corkscrew
S" twist
spiraling to the right
Z" twist:
spiraling to the left
Covered Yarns
Yarns wrapped around yarns
Spun Yarns
short-staple fibers, strength (depends on fiber, but really on how many turns per inch, the tighter it gets twisted, the stonger) natural fibers and man made fibers cut to staple length
colorant
The product of a dye or a pigment used to apply color to fabric
Stock dyeing
Dyeing of fibers before its spun into yarn. It is done by putting loose, un-spun fibers into large vats containing the dye bath, which is less than heated to proper temperature.
colorway
same print, different color
roller printing
printing with engraved copper rollers, oldest machine method, fine lines possible, no longer used because of costs
lab dip
the sample they send back to you for approval
bezold effect
multiple colors that create something from a distance
dye
change the chemical structures. they react with the actual fiber
piece dyeing
dyeing a whole bulk or roll of -fabric. A piece is 70-90 yards
Resist dyeing
when wax is applied to a fabric and the unwaxed areas take in the dye while the waxed areas don't take in the color
Screen printing (3 types)
flat bed, cylinder, flat bed cylinder
Photospectrometer
instrument used to measure the intensity of wavelengths in a spectrum of light
Pigment
a chip, dry substance that's mixed with a particle color that has some sort of adhesive to be applied to a fabric
Solution dyeing
Adding color to the solution or the dope before the fiber is spun out
Batik
a method (originally used in Java) of producing colored designs on textiles by dyeing them, having first applied wax to the parts to be left undyed
Discharge printing
chemical applied to dyed fabric remove color to make it lighter
Strike-off
done to check color accuracy and register
Light box
Goes along with metamerism and how different lights produce different colors. MacBeth Lightbox.
Yarn dyeing
the dyeing of of yarn before the fabric is woven or knitted
Union dyeing
dyeing a fabric containing two or more types of fibers or yarns to the same shade
Ikat
ancient process
-yarns tied, dyed and then woven
-can be applied on warp, filling or both
-design does not have precise edge
-requires great skill
Digital printing
microdrops of ink are applied through tiny nozzles onto fabric surface
-computer control and good for small lot, custom printing and samples by textile designers and large repeat size
-limitation on fabric width
-image resolution and crispness can be an i
metamerism
colors match under one light but not another