Position tools in staggered configuration
What is the bricklay perming pattern?
On base
To create more volume which tool position should be used?
Large curl, loose
What will be using a larger diameter perm rods give you
Off base
Took position results in no curl at the scalp and minimal degree of volume
1.5
With an under directed tool position, the base size is at least how many times the diameter of the tool
Neutralizers
It is essential to completely rinse the perm solution before applying what
Under directed
Is the tool position that would be used in the perimeter areas where closeness is desired
Perimeter or drop crown
Wrapping pattern that eliminates textures in the top and crown and focuses on the perimeter and the ends of the hair
Sodium perborate, sodium bromate, hydrogen peroxide
What are the main ingredients in most neutralizers
Towel blot
How do you remove excess water from the hair, prior to neutralizing
Size and shape of new curl
What does the size of the perm rod give you
Preliminary test curl
Will help you determine how a clients hair will react to a perm
Desired result
Wrapping hair Conor boy and evenly around the perm tool using the appropriate tension will produce the desired result
Tool size and shape
What determines the size and shape of the new curl configuration
Barrier protective cream
What do we apple around the hairline of our clients skin to help protect the skin
On base, 1/2 off base, off base, under directed
The 4 basic tool positions
6.9-7.2
What is the pH of acid perms
S
After unwinding the perm rod 1-1.5 times a positive test curl resembles what formation
Swell
The alkalinity of cold waves causes the hair fiber to soften and
Slower process time and soft natural curls
True statements regaining acid perms, good for fragile hair
Metallic salts
What ingredient in some color products could cause uneven curls, discoloration and hair breakage
Splits
Using bricklayer perm wrap what does it help avoid
Acid wave
Causes minimal swelling and must be wrapped with firm even tension
Drop crown
Another name for the perimeter wrap
Croquignole
Method of wrapping ends to scalp
Neutralizer
Reduces swelling of the hair and re hardens bonds in a new shape during a perm process
Perming
The physical and chemical process of making straight hair curly
Alkalinity
A neutralizer rebound and restores the disulfide bonds in addition to reduces the swelling cause by the
Alkaline
Which perm type has a greater chance of damaging the hair
1/2 off
Picture asking what base control is shown
Double paper
Is the most common end paper technique because it allows maximum control of tapered ends and avoids bunching at the ends
Record card
After completing a service it is important to complete the clients
Over processed
Hair is curly when wet and frizzy when dry
Neutralizer and weaken the curl formation
Water left in the end papers after rinsing the perm solution will dilute the
Spiral
The method of wrapping hair from scalp to ends is known as
Barrier cream
Is applied to a clients hairline prior to a perm service to protect the skin
Texture, porosity, elasticity, density
What determines process time, proper perm solution and rinsing time?
Disulfide bonds
In alkaline waves the perm solution chemically breaks or reduced the strong _______
Physical and chemically
What are the two phases of perming
Texture
What is generally described as fine, medium, or coarse
Partial perm
A perm that positions new texture only where is is desired is called a
2.5 times
How many times should the hair overlap around the perm tools to get a complete curl pattern
Large
A weak or limp curl could be caused by a perm rod being too
Tension may cause breakage
On base control is not recommended for alkaline perms since expansion is limited at the base and
Neutralizing
The final step in the chemical phase of the perm is
Light shampoo
Is the first step in a virgin thioglycolate relaxer service
Tightly curled hair
Sodium hydroxide relaxers are generally used on
Super strength
What Relaxer is recommended for tightly curlers coarse textured hair
Comb test
What typed is test is performed during a relaxer service to determine if the proper amount of relaxation has occurred
Tightly curled hair
Curl diffusion, also known as chemical blow out is a technique used to loosen or relax what type of hair
Scalp abrasion
This would prevent you from preforming a relaxing service
Bleach
Sodium hydroxide relaxer should never be applied to hair that has been colored with permanent color or
Re harden the hair
An acid balanced neutralizing shampoo or stabilizer after a relaxer and the is free from chemicals to
Elliptical
The shape of tightly curled hair follicle is
Apply conditioning treatment
What action should be taken to replace natural oils to the hair that were removed during a chemical relaxing process
EQ gloss
Which Type of hair color can be applied over hair that has been chemically relaxed with a sodium hydroxide relaxer
Sodium hydroxide
No lye relaxers contain a derivative of
Proper rinsing
With out _________ in the nape area after a relaxer could cause damage
8.5-9.5
Ammonium thioglycoate relaxers have a pH range of
Processing more quickly
During a virgin relaxer, you would apply the product to the base last due to it
Do not pre shampoo
Prior to sodium hydroxide relaxer you do not what
Ability to absorb moisture
WhAt is porosity
Sodium hydroxide
Lye relaxers are also known as
Mild
Which Type of ammonium thioglycoate relaxer strength would be used on healthy color treated fine textured or porous hair
85%
_____ is the optimum percent of natural curl pattern to remove when using relaxer
Neutralizing
The third and final step of the curl reformation service, rebounding involves
Ammonium thioglycoate
What is the main ingredient found in re arrangers ( curl reformation)
Sodium hydroxide
If curl reforming is desired, cut off all hair that has previously been treated with
Reformation curl
Double process perm
Curl reformation
Names for chemical service designed to change tightly curled hair or curly or wavy
Curl activator
Helps retain shape of a new curl configuration, provides moisture
Thinner than normal
During a curl reforming service, what size parting should be used
2 times
When performing a curl reformation service, the rod diameter chosen is generally at least how many times larger than the diameter of the natural curl pattern
Ammonium thioglycolate
Is the main ingredient in curl re arrangers
Additional booster
Once the hair is completely wrapped during a curl reformation service, what is applied to ensure thorough saturation of the weaving lotion