Artificial pigment
hair color appplied to the hair to achieve the clients desired level and tone.
Base ( retouch) application
Color or lightener is applied to the new growth only to match existing color.
Cap highlighting
Technique generally performed on short hair no longer than 6 inches ( 15 cm); crochet hook is used to pull strands through a perforated cap; color or lightener is applied to the hair extending out of the cap
cap method
A hair coloring technique in which selcted hair strainds are pulled through perforated holes in rubber coloring cap with crochet hook
Color removal
Removal of artificial pigment from the hair
Color wheel
A tool in which the twelve colors are positioned in a circle, allowing any mixed color to be described in relation to the primary colors
Complementary colors
colors found opposite one another on the color; used to neutralizebunwanted tones
Compound dyes
Combination of metallic and vegetable dyes; metallic salts are added to vegetable dyes to create a wider range of colors and a longer lasting color than achieved with vegetable dyes alone
Concentrates
Hair color products designed to increase vibrancy of a color formula or to neutralize tones
Cool colors
Violet, blue and greens range on the color wheel
decolorization
The stages or degrees the hair goes threw as the melanin changes; dark hair goes through ten levels, from black to palest yellow
Developers
Oxidizing agents used with demi-permanent and permanent color, lightening and toners
Double-process blonde
A two-step hair coloring process that involves lightening the hair first and then recolorizing thehair to the desired tone
Drabbers
Also called concentrates, intensifiers and pigments; refers to products designed to increase the vibrancy of a color formula or to neutralize tones
Eumelanin
The type of mealin that produces brown/black hair color
Fillers
Hair color products used to provide an even base color by filling in pores, damged or obused areas with materials such as proteins or polymers; equalizes the porosity and deposits a base color in one application
Foil/thermal strip
Isolates woven or sliced strands of hair from the untreated hair during a color service; also prevents color from intermixing
Freeform paining
A technique in which a brush is used to strategically position color or lighteners on the surface of the hair
Full highlights, weaving
Technique where selected strands are lightened to create an alternation of lighter tone throughout the entire design
Gray hair
Sometimes referred to as mottled hair, indicating white spots scattered about the hair shaft, caused by redouced color pigment in the cortex layer of the hair
Hydrogen peroxide
The most often used oxidizing or developing agent
Intensity
Refers to the britghtness or vividness of a color or the strength of the tone
Law of color
Identifies that of all colors in the universe, only three: yellow, red and blue, called primary colors, are pure
Level
The degree of lightness or darkness of hair color; idnetified on a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being the darkest and 10 the lightest
Lighteners
Also called bleaches; used to remove or diffuse melanin; utilize ingredients, such as ammonia and peroxide, to facilitate the oxidation process; generally applied to dry hair; available in oil cream or poder form
Liquid hair color
Applied with a bottle; contain fewer conditioning agents and a greater ammonia content; pentetration ability
Melanin
A pigment that gives skin and hair their color
Metallic dyes
Hair dyes containing metals; also known as progressive dyes because the hair turns darker with each application
Naturla melanin
Existing level and tone of the client's hair
Off-the-scalp lighteners
Strong lightenr that lightens the hair quickly and is not intended to touch the scalp
on-the-scalp lighteners
Mild lightener that can be applied directly on the scalp; available in oil and cream form; thick consistency to achieve a darker result
Oxidative color: darker result
Also called a virgin darker when applied the first time; color is applied from base to ends using a bowl and brush or an applicator bottle; involves applying an oxidative color to achieve a darker result
Oxidative color: demi-permanent
Contains very little or no ammonia and are desired to deposit color or add tone to the hair; uses a low volume peroxide to develop the color molecules and aid in the color processing: not designed to lift or lighten the existing hair color and genrally la
Oxidative color: lighter result
Permanent colors that lighten and deposit color in a single process
Oxidative color: permanent
Color mixed with hydrogen peroxide capable of both lifting natural pigment and depositing artificial pigment in one process: add tone darken existing hair or lighten and deposit color in a single process
Partial highlights
Technique used to create an alteration of colors beyond the surface of the hair
Pheomelanin
The type of melanin that produces red ahir color
Porosity
Refers to the hair's ability to absorb and/or retain liquids
Predisposition ( skin patch) test
Provides determination of client sensitivity or allergy to certain chemicals found ina permanent or aniline derivative tint
Primary colors
yellow, red and blue; cannot be created by mixing together any other colors
Protective gloves
protects the hands during chemical services; in some areas wearing gloves during any service, especially chemical services is manditory
Record card/release form
Documents pertinent information about the client in order to perform safe cosmetology procedures
Secondary colors
Orange, green and violet; primary colors are mixed in equal proportions
Semi-permanent nonoxidative colors
Direct-dye colors that need no mixing; the color seen in the bottle is the color deposited on the hair; alkaline; genrally last through several shampoos depending on the perosity of the hair; deposit color and cannot lighten the hair
Slicing
Slicing: a hair coloring technique in which a section of hair is positioned over a piece of paper or thermal strip and color is applied
Strand test
A perliminary color test performed 24-48 hours before the actual hair color service to determine the correct formula and processing time to be used
Surface painting
Technique performed on the surface of the hair to create subtle to dramatic highlighted or lowlighted color effects
Temporary nonoxidative colors
Used to create temporary changes that last from shampoo to shampoo; non-reactive, direct dyes, which means no chemicals are needed to develop them
Tertiary colors
Made by mixing primary colors with there neighboring secondary color in equal proportions
Tint back
coloring hair back to its original color
Tone
Identifies the warmth or cooloeness of a color
Toners
Light pastel colors used to tone prelightened hair; used to deposit color and neutralize unwanted pigment after prelightening
Vegetable dyes
Natural products used to color the hair; henna is an example of a vegetable dye that produces reddish highlights in the hair
Warm colors
Orange, red and yellow range of the color wheel
Weaving
Weaving: the use of a tail comb to weave out selected strands of hair in an alternating pattern for the appliccation of hair color