Fabric
A pliable, plantlike structure that can be made into 2D or 3D products that require some shaping and flexibility
Fabric Quality
A fabric's freedom from defects, uniform structure and appearance related to fabric type, and performance during production and in consumer use
- graded by totaling defect points within piece of fabric
Woven Fabrics
Fabrics in which two or more sets of yarn are interlaced at right angles to each other
- warp yarns or ends
- Filling yarns or weft or picks
Woven Fabric Characteristics
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Basics of a Weaving Loom
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Warp Beam
Contains the warp yarn
Shuttle
Carries filling yarn
Winding
Repacking yarns in preparation for weaving
Creeling
Large frame that hold the warp yarns as they are wound onto the warp beam
Warping
Threading the warp yarns from the warp beam, through the heddles, reed and onto the cloth beam
Shedding
Raising one or more harnesses to separate the warp yarns and form a shed
Picking
Passing the shuttle through the shed to insert the filling yarn
Beating Up
Pushing the filling yarn into place in the fabric with a reed
Take-Up
Winding finished fabric onto the fabric beam
Types of Looms
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Shuttleless Looms
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General Terminology Weave Descriptions
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Grain
On true, when warp yarns are perpendicular to filling yarns
- Lengthwise - warp
- Crosswise - filling
- Bias
Off Grain
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Fabric Count
The number of warp and filling yarns per inch of fabric
Balanced
8 warp + 8 filling = 16 fabric count
Unbalanced
12 warp yarns + 8 filling yarns = 20 fabric count
Very Narrow Width
< 27
Narrow Width
27" - 36
Standard Width
45", 54", 60", 72
Special Widths
100 or 120 inches
Light or Top Weight
< 4.0 oz/yd^2
- Shirts and Blouses
Medium Weight
4.0 - 6.0 oz/yd^2
- Heavier and stiffer shirts, blouses, dresses
- Draperies, upholstery, table linens
Heavy or Bottom Weight
> 6 oz/yd^2
- Pants, jeans, outerwear
Very Heavy Weight
> 14 oz/yd^2
- Work wear and industrial
Plain Weave
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Light Weight Plain Weave
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Medium Weight Plain Weave
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Heavy Weight Plain Weave
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Unbalanced Plain Weave
Significantly more yarns in one direction than the other
Rib Weave
Warp yarn count twice of filling count creates a filling rib
- Crepe de chine
- Broadcloth
- Taffeta
- Shantung
- Poplin
- Ottoman
- Bedford Cord
Basket Weave
Two or more warp yarns or two or more filling yarns crossing over as one
- Monk's cloth
- Hopsacking
- Sailcloth
- Dimity
- Oxford Cloth
- Duck
- Canvas
Twill Weave
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Warp- Faced Twills
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Even- Sided Twills
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Satin Weave
Each warp yarns floats over four filling yarns and interlaces with the fifth filling yarn, with a progression of interlacing by two to the right or left
- Warp-faced
- Filling- faced
Warp-Faced Satin
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Filling-Faced Satin
Moleskin