hair services that cause a chemical change that permanently alters the natural wave pattern of the hair are called
chemical texture services
a strong compact cuticle makes for
resistant hair
porous, damaged, or chemically treated hair requires a perm solution that is
less alkaline
changing the natural wave pattern of the hair is made possible by the breaking of the
side bonds
of the three types of side bonds, disulfide bonds are the
strongest
salt bonds are easily broken by
changes in pH
an example of a physical change is a
wet set
hydrogen bonds are very weak, but they account for about ___ of the hairs total strength
1/3
by making a point of keeping accurate, up to date client records, you will
improve your technical skills
the most important factos to consider in a hair analysis for chemical texture services are texture, density, porosity, elasticity and
growth direction
hair texture
coarse, medium, fine
when treated with chemical texture services, coarse hair is usually
harder to penetrate
the hair texture that is the most fragile and easies to process with permanent waving solution
fine hair
the single most important factor in determining the ability of hair to hold a curl
elasticity
wet hair with normal elasticity can stretch up to __% of its original length and then return to that length without breaking
50
the first part of any perm, wrapping the hair on perm rods, causes a/an
physical change
the second part of any perm, the application of waving solution and neutralizer, causes a
chemical change
the major difference between a wet set and a perm
the types of side bonds broken
the size of the perm tool determines the
size of the curl
wrapping the hair on small tools increases
tension
for perm wrapping, the hair is divided into panels, then into
base sections
the position of the tool in relation to its base section is called
base control
base control is determined by the angle
at which the hair is wrapped
the hair is wrapped at an agle of 45 degrees beyond perpendicular to its base section in
on-base placement
in off-base placement, the hair is wrapped ___ to its base section
45 degrees below perpendicular
because it places additional stress and tension on the hair, caution should be used with
on-base placement
of the various base controls, the least amount of volume is created by using
off-base placement
the angle at which the perm tool is positioned on the head
base direction
the wrapping technique in which the hair is wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping layers
croquignole wrapping
in the spiral perm wrapping technique, the hair is wrapped
at an angle other than perpendicular
rods with a smaller circumference in the center than at the ends
concave rods
rods with the same circumference along their entire length or curling area
straight rods
the distinguishing feature of soft bender rods is that they can be
bent into many shapes
circle tools or loop rods are ideal for
spiral wrapping very long hair
end wraps are absorbent papers used when winding hair on perm tools to
control hair ends
when you place one end paper over the top of the hair strand as you wrap it around the perm tool
single flat wrap
when you fold one end paper in half over the hair ends like an envelope
bookend wrap
the end paper technique that provides the most control over the hair ends and keeps them evenly distributed
double flat wrap
permanent waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds in the cortex through a chemical reaction called
reduction
in permanent waving solutions, thiol compounds act as
reducing agents
ammonium thioglycolate is produced by adding ___ to thioglycolic acid
ammonia
alkaline waves are also called
cold waves
most true acid waves
require heat to speed processing
most of the acid waves in todays salons have a PH between
7.8 and 8.2
permanent waves that require heat from an outside source
endothermic
one benefit of ammonia-free waves is they
have no unpleasant ammonia odor
in permanent waving, most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair, within the first ___ minutes
5 to 10
complete saturation of the hair is essential to proper processing in all permanent waves, but especially on
resistant hair
a properly processed permanent wave should break and rebuild about __% of the hairs disulfide bonds
50
if the hair is underprocessed
too few disulfide bonds are broken
neutralizer performs two functions, deactivating any remaining waving solution in the hair and
rebuilding broken disulfide bonds
the chemical reaction involved in neutralizing is
oxidation
perm solution should be rinsed from the hair for at least __ minutes
5
perm solution should be rinsed from the hair before neutralizing to avoid scalp irritation and
lightening the hair color
after rinsing the perm solution from the hair, the next step is to
blot the rods with towels
an optional step after blotting the hair and before applying neutralizer is to
apply a pre-neutralizing conditioner
the hydrogen atoms in the broken disulfide bonds are so strongly attracted to the oxygen in the neutralizer that they release their bond with the
sulfur atoms
unless the scalp is irritate, hair that has just been permed may be colored with
demipermanent haircolor
is it safe to perm hair that
has been treated with thio relaxer
metallic salts leave a coating on the hair that may cause severe discoloration, hair breakage, or
uneven curls
to test for metallic salts in the hair, immerse at least 20 strands in a mixture of peroxide and
ammonia
the basic perm wrap
straight set wrap
the perm wrap that creates a movement that curves within sectioned-out panels
curvature perm wrap
zigzag partings are used to divide base areas in the perm wrapping technique
weave technique
the double tool perm technique
piggyback wrap
the spiral perm technique
produces a uniform curl from scalp to ends
to determine the proper processing time needed for optimal curl development you should do
preliminary test curls
when giving a partial perm, you can make a smooth transition from a rolled to an unrolled section by using a ___ as the last tool next to an unrolled section
larger tool
the process of rearranging the basic structure of extremely curly hair into a straight form is called
chemical hair relaxing
chemical hair relaxing is very similar to
permanant waving
all relaxers and permanents change the shape of the hair by
breaking disulfide bonds
most relaxers contain the same ingredients used in
depilatories
extremely curly hair
has varying diameters
extremely curly hair is weakest at the
twists
thio relaxers
have a pH above 10
each step in the pH scale represents a __ change in concentration
tenfold
hydroxide relaxers remove one atom of sulfur from a disulfide bond and convert it into a lanthionine bond in a process called
lanthionization
the disulfide bonds that are broken by hydroxide relaxers
can never be re-formed
the neutralization of hydroxide relaxers involves the use of
acid-balanced shampoo
if you have treated a clients hair with a hydroxide relaxer, it cannot be treated with
soft curl permanents
metal hydroxide relaxers are ionic compounds formed by a metal combined with
oxygen and hydrogen
sodium hydroxide relaxers are commonly called
hye relaxers
a chemical relaxer that straightens the hair completely but with much less scalp irritation than other hydroxide relaxers is
guanidine hydroxide relaxer
chemical relaxers marketed as mild alternative relaxers are
sulfites
mild strenght relaxers are recommended for fine, damaged, or
color treated hair
the application for a virgin hair relaxer begins
1/4" to 1/2" away from the scalp
relaxer should be applied to the most resistant area first, the
back of the head
normalizing solutions are conditioners with an acidic pH that are used in a relaxing procedure
prior to shampooing
to determine if the hair is sufficiently relaxed, do
periodic strand testing
to neutralize hydroxide relaxer, shampoo the hair with an acid-balanced shampoo at least
3 times
a soft curl permanent make
existing curls larger
a Jheri curl or soft curl permanent is a combination of a thio relaxer and
a thio permanent
in a soft curl permanent, the hair is first relaxed, then wrapped
on horizontal base sections
when applying a hydroxide realxer
do not shampoo first
you should not attempt to remove more than __% of the natural curl with chemical relaxing
80