Chemical texture services
Methods of altering the natural wave pattern of the hair by chemical change.
Less alkaline
In order to perm porous, damaged, or chemically treated hair, you should use a solution that is:, Porous, damage, or chemically treated hair requires a perm solutionthat is
Cortex
It is possible to change the hairs natural wave pattern by breaking the side bonds in the:?
Disulfide Bonds
The three types of cross-links that form the bonds between the polypeptide chains are hydrogen bonds, salt bonds, and
Disulfide Bonds
Chemical side bonds that, of the three bonds, are the strongest.
Changes in PH
Salt bonds are easily broken by:
Wet set
An example of a physical change is a:
Hydrogen Bonds
What makes up about 1/3 of hair's total strength?
A strong cuticle
Resistant hair that resists penetration by chemicals has:
Keep accurate, detailed records
How do you improve your technical skills?
Texture and Porosity
The most important factors to consider in a hair analysis for chemical texture services include:
Hair Texture
Large, Medium, and small diameter hair strands translate into coarse medium and fine what?
Fine hair
What hair type has the smallest diameter and is more fragile?
Coarse hair
The hair texture likely to take longer to process is:
Hold a curl
Elasticity is the single most important factor in determining the hair' ability to:
50%
If wet hair can stretch up to what percent of its original length, then return to that length without breaking, it has normal elasticity?
Hydrogen Bonds
In the first part of any perm, the physical change that occurs when the hair is wrapped on perm rods breaks the:?
Waving solution and neutralizer
Applying what to the hair during a perm causes a chemical change?
Size of the curl
The factor that is determined by the size of the perm tool is the:
Marked or broken hair
Wrapping the hair with too much tension may result in:
Base sections
In the permanent waving, panels of hair are divided into smaller sub-sections called:
Base sections
Base control is the position of the perm tool in relation to:
45 degrees beyond perpendicular
In on-base placement, the hair is wrapped at what angle?
45 degrees below perpendicular
In off-base placement, the hair is wrapped at what angle?
On base
What type of hair wrapping may damage the hair?
Base direction
Angle at which the rod is positioned on the head (horizontally, vertically, or diagonally); also, the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped is known as:
Croquignole wrapping
When you wrap the hair from ends to the scalp in overlapping layers, you are using
Spiral Wrapping
The hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the tool in the technique called:
Concave rods
Perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends are called:
Straight rods
Perm rods that are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area.
Bent into many shapes
Soft bender rods can be:
Circle tool
Long perming rod that fastens in a circle for spiral wrapping very long hair are:
Control the hair ends
When you wind the hair on perm tools, use end papers to
Single Flat Wrap
Perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped.
Bookend Wrap
When one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends likes an envelope, it is called the:
Reduction
The disulfide bonds in the cortex are broken by perm solution in the process called:
Thiol compounds
The reducing agents used in permanent waving solutions are:
Ammonia
What is added to thioglycol acid produces a new chemical called ammonium thioglygolate?
Alkaline waves
Also known as cold waves; have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent, and process at room temperature without the addition of heat are:
Heat
Acid waves require what to speed processing.
Acid-balanced waves
Perms with a pH between 7.8 and 8.2 that process at room temperature and process more quickly and produce firmer curls than true acid waves are:
Endothermic
Permanent waves that are activated by an outside heat source are:
Ammonia-free waves
Perms use alkanolamines instead of ammonia, and are popular because of their low odor are:
5 to 10 minutes
In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place within:
Saturate it thoroughly
To properly process resistant hair when permanent waving, it is particularly important to:
50%
Approximately what percent of the hair's disulfide bonds should be broken and rebuilt in a properly processed permanent wave?
Neutralizer
The two important function of _______ are deactivating any remaining waving solution and rebuilding broken disulfide bonds.
Hydrogen Peroxide
The most common neutralizer for permanent waving.
5 minutes
You should rinse perm solution from the hair for at least:
Oxidation reaction
Neutralization can lighten the hair color because it is a/an:
Blot the rods with towels
After rinsing perm solution from the hair, the next step is to:
Pre-neutralizing conditioner
In permanent waving, what is particularly beneficial for very damaged hair?
sulfur atoms
Broken disulfide bonds are rebuilt when their hydrogen atoms, attracted to the oxygen in the neutralizer, release their bond with the:
Thio relaxer
You may safely apply permanent waving lotion to the hair that has been treated with:
Metallic haircolor
Uneven curls, severe discoloration, or hair breakage may result if you perm hair that has been treated with:
Peroxide and Ammonia
If you think there are metallic salts in a client's hair, soak at least 20 strands in a mixture of:
Curvature perm wrap
The movement that curves within sectioned out panels is a characteristic of:
zigzag partings
In the weave technique of wrapping, base areas are divided with
piggyback wrap
The double-rod (double tool) wrap technique is also called the
Spiral perm technique
Perm wrapping technique that resembles the grip on a tennis racquet is the.
Preliminary strand test
To determine the processing time for optimal curl developement, you should perform a ____
Partial perms
Making a smooth transition from rolled to unrolled sections is an important consideration when wrapping
Chemical hair relaxing
The process of rearranging extremely curly hair into a straighter or smoother form is:
Breaking disulfide bonds
All permanents and all relaxers - both thio and hydroxide - rearrange the basic structure of the hair by
Hair relaxers
The ingredients found in depilatories are the same as those found in most:
very weak
The twists in extremely curly hair are:
pH above 10
Thio relaxers have:
10
A pH of 6.0 is ____ times more alkaline than a pH of 5.0?
Lanthionization
Process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair; they remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond and convert it into a lanthionine bond.
Disulfide Bonds
What bonds that are broken by hydroxide relaxers can never be re-formed?
Acid-balanced shampoo
To neutralize a hydroxide relaxer, you should use a/an:
Hydroxide relaxer
Soft curl permanents and thio relaxers can not be used on hair that has been treated with:
Oxygen and Hydrogen
Ionic compounds formed by metal combined with _________________ are called metal hydroxide relaxers
Sodium Hydroxide Relaxers
Commonly called lye relaxers. It is the oldest and most common type of chemical hair relaxer.
Guanidine hydroxide relaxer
A relaxer that causes less scalp irritation than other hydroxide relaxers but still straightens the hair completely is
Sulfites
What are marketed as mild alternative relaxers?
Color-treated hair
Fine, damaged, or ______ hair should be relaxed with mild strength relaxers
Virgin Relaxer
Relaxer should not be applied until the last few minutes of processing to the scalp and ends during a:
Back of the head
The application for chemical relaxer should be started in the most resistance area, usually the:
Normalizing solutions
In a relaxing procedure, conditioners with an acidic pH that restore the natural pH prior to shampooing are called
Periodic strand testing
A procedure that will help you determine if the client's hair is sufficiently relaxed is
5 minutes
After relaxer has been rinsed from the hair, you may apply normalizing solution and leave it on for how long?
Jheri curl
A combination of thio relaxer and thio permanent is known as a:
80%
No more than ___ of the natural curl should be removed with chemical relaxers.
Hydroxide relaxer
Do not shampoo the hair prior to application of:
On horizontal base sections
In the second part of a soft curl permanent, the relaxed hair is wrapped