Activators
aka: boosters, protinators, or accelerators; powdered persulfate salts added to haircolor to incarease its lightening ability
Aniline derivatives
Contain small, uncolored dyes that combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, permanent dye molecules within the cortex.
Baliage
Also known as the free-form technique that involves the painting of a lightener directly onto clean styled hair
Base color
Predominant tone of a color.
Cap technique
Lightening technique that involves pulling clean strands of hair through a perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal hook
Color fibers
Equalize porosity and deposit color in one application to provide a uniform contributing pigment on prelightened hair.
Complementary colors
colors located directly opposite one another on the color wheel
Conditioner filters
Used to recondition damaged, overly porous hair, and equalize porosity so that the hair accepts the color evenly from strand to strand and scalp to ends.
Contributing pigment
also known as undertone; the varying degrees of warmth exposed during a permanent color or lightening process.
demipermanent haircolor
Also called no-lift, deposit-only color. Formulated to deposit, but not life (lighten) natural hair color. Demipermanent colors are able to deposit without lifting because they are less alkaline than permanent colors and are mixed with a low-volume develo
developers
aka: oxidizing agents or catalysts; when mixed w/ an oxidation haircolor, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop color molecules and create a change in hair color.
double-process application
also known as two-step coloring; a coloring technique requiring two seperate procedures in which the hair is prelightened before the depositing color is applied to the hair.
Fillers
Used to equalize porosity
Foil technique
Highlighthimg technique that involves coloring selected strands of hair bu slicing or weaving out sections, placing them on foil or plastic wrap, applying lightner or permanent haircolor, and sealing them in the foil or plastic wrap
glaze
A nonammonia color that adds shine and tone to the hair.
hair color
the natural color of hair
hair lightening
Chemical process involving the diffusion of the natural color pigment or artificial color from the hair; often called "bleaching" or "decolorizing
highlighting shampoo
Colors prepared by combining permanent haircolor, hydrogen peroxide, and shampoo.
hydrogen peroxide developer
oxidizing agent that, when mixed with an oxidation haircolor, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop the color molecules and create a change in natural hair color
Intensity
the strength of a color
Law of color
System for understanding color relationships.
Level
The unit of measurement used to identify the lightness or darkness of a color.
Level system
System that colorists use to determine the lightness or darkness of a hair color.
Lighteners
chemical compounds that lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving and decolorizing the natural hair pigment
Line of demarcation
Visible line separating colored hair from new growth.
Metallic haircolors
Also known as gradual haircolors; haircolors containing metal salts that change hair color gradually by progressive buildup and exposure to air creating a dull, metallic appearance.
Mixed melanin
combination of natural hair color that contains both pheomelanin and eumelanin.
Natural haircolors
aka: vegetable haircolors; colors, such as henna, obtained from the leaves or bark of plants.
New growth
part of the hair shaft between the scalp and the hair that has been previously colored.
Off-the-scalp lighteners
powdered lighteners that cannot be used directly on the scalp.
On-the-scalp lighteners
Lighteners that can be used directly on the scalp by mixing the lightener with activators.
patch test
aka: predispostion test; test required by the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act for identifying a possible allergy in a client.
permanent haircolor
Lightens and deposits color at the same time in one application. They are more alkaline than no lift deposit only haircolors and mixed with a higher volume developer.
prelightening
First step of double-process haircoloring, used to lift or lighten the natural pigment vefore the applicaton of toner
presoftening
process of treating gray or very resistant hair to allow for better penetration of color
primary colors
Red, Yellow, Blue
resistant
hair type that is difficult for moisture or chemicals to penetrate, and thus requires a longer processing time.
reverse highlighting
technique used to color strands of hair darker than the natural also known as lowlighting
secondary color
any color produced by combining equal amounts of any two primary colors
semipermanent hair color
No- lift, deposit-only, nonoxidation hair color that is not mixed with peroxide and is formulated to last through several shampoos
Single-process haircolor
process that lightens and deposites color in the hair in single application
Slicing
Color technique that involves taking a narrow, 1/8-inch (0.3-centimeter) section of hair by making a straight part at the scalp, postioning the hair over the foil, and applying lightner or colr.
Soap cap
Combination of equal parts of a prepared permanent color mixture and shampoo used the last five minutes and worked through the hair to refresh the ends.
Special effects haircoloring
Any technique that involves partial lightening or coloring.
strand test
Determines how the hair will react to the color formula and how long the formula should be left on the hair.
temporary haircolor
nonpermanent color whose large pigment molecules prevent penetration of the cuticle layer allowing only a coating action that may be removed by shampooing
tertiary color
Intermediate color schieved by mixing a secondary color and its neighboring promary color on the color wheel in equal amounts.
tone
aka as hue. the balance of color
toners
semipermanent, demipermanent, and permanent haircolor products that are used primarily on prelightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colors.
virgin application
first time the hair is colored.
volume
Measures the concentration and strength of hydrogen peroxid
weaving
Coloring technique in which selected strands are picked up from a narrow section of hair with a zigzag motion of the comb, and lightener or color is applied only to these strands