COSMETOLOGY Chapter 14: Haircutting

angle

space between two lines or surfaces that intersect at a given point

apex

highest point on the top of the head.

bang (fringe)

triangular section that begins at the apex and ends at the front corners.

beveling

techinique using diagonal lines by cutting hair ends with a slight increase or decrease in length.

blunt haircut

haircut in which all the hair comes to one hanging level, forming a weight line or area; hair is cut with no elevation or over direction, also referred to as a one length, zero elevation, or no elevation cut.

carving

haircutting technique done by placing the still blade into the hair and resting it on the scalp, and then moving the shears through the hair while opening and partially closing the shears.

clipper over comb

haircutiing technique similar to scissor over comb, except that the clippers move side to side across the comb rather than bottom to top.

cross checking

parting the haircut in the opposite way from which you cut it, to check for precision of line and shape.

crown

area of the head between the apex and back of the parietal ridge.

cutting line

angle at which the figners are held when cutiint, and ultimately the line that is cut; aslo known as finger angle, finger positon,cutting angle.

distribution

where and how hair is moved over the head.

elevation

angle or degree at which a subsection of hair is held, or lifted, from the head when cuting; also referred to as projection or lifting

four corners

points on the head that signal a change in the shape of the head, from flat to round or vice versa.

free hand nothcing

nothcing technique in which pieces of hair are snipped out at random intervals.

free hand slicing

technique used to telease weight from the subsection, allowing the hair to move more freely.

graduated haircut

graduated shape of wedge; an effect or haircut that results from cutting the hai with tension, low to medium elevation or over direction.

graduation

elevation occurs when a section is lifted above 0 degrees.

growth pattern

direction in which the hair grows from the scalp; also referred to as natural fall or natural falling position

guideline

section of hair located either at the perimeter or the interior of the cut, determines the length the hair will be cut also referred to as guide; usually the first section that is cut to create a shape

hairline

hair that grows at the outermost perimeter along the face around the ears and on the neck

head form

shape of the head, which greatly affects the way the hair falls and behaves, also called the head shape

interior

inner or internal part.

interior guideline

guidelint that is inside the haircut rather than on the perimeter.

layered haircut

graduated effect achieved by cutting the hair with elevation or over-direction; the hair is cut at higher elevations, usually 90 degrees or above, which removes weight

layers

create movement and volume in the hair by releasing weight.

line

thin continous mark used as a guide; can be straight or curved, horizontal, vertical, or diagonal

long layered haircut

hair is cut at 180 degrees angle the resulting shape has shorter layers at the top and increasingly longers layers toward the perimeter

nape

back part of the neck; the hair below the occipital bone.

notching

version of point cutting in which the tips of the scizzors are moved toward the hair ends rather than into them created a chunkier effect

over direction

combing a section away from its natural falling position, rather than straight out from the head, toward a guideline; used to create increasing lengths in the interior or perimeter.

palm to palm

cutting position in which the palms of both hands are facing each other.

parietal ridge

widest area of the head, usually starting at the temples and ending at the bottom of the crown.

point cutting

haircutting technique in which the tips of the shears are used to cut "points" into the ends of the hair.

razor over comb

texturizing technique in qhich the comb and razor are used on the surface of the hair.

razor rotation

texturizing technique in which the comb and the razor are used on the surface of the hair.

reference points

points of the head that mark where the surface of the head changes or the behavior of the hair changes such as ears, jawline, occipital bone apex used to establish design lines that are proportionate

sections

to divide the hair by parting into uniform working areas for control.

scissor over comb

haircutting technique in which the hair is held in place with the comb while the tips of the scissors are used to remove the lengths.

slicing

technique that removes bulk and adds movement through the lengths of the hair; the shears are not completely closed and only the portion of the blades near the pivot is used

slide cutting

method of cutting or thinning the hair in which the fingers and shears glide along the edge of the hair to remove length

slithering

process of thinning the hair ro graduated lengths with shears; cutting the hair with a sliding movement of the shears while keepin the blades partially opened; also called effilating.

stationary guideline

guideline that does not move.

subsections

smaller sections within a larger section of hair, used to maintain control of the hair while cutting.

tapers

haircutting effect in which there is an even blend from very short at the hair line to longer lengths as you move up the head; "to taper" is to narrow progressively at one end

tension

amount of pressure applied when combining and holding a section, created by streaching or pulling the section.

texturizing

removing excess bulk without shortening the length; changing the appearance or behavior of the hair through specific haircutting techniques, using shears, thinning shears or a razor

traveling guideline

guideline that moves as the haircutting progresses, used often when creating layers or graduation

uniform layers

hair is elevated to 90 degrees from the scalp and cut at the same length.

weight line

visual "line" in the haircut, where the ends of the hair hang together.

part/parting

line dividing the hair to the scalp that separates one section of hair from another or creates subsections

parimeter

outer line of a hairstyle