EXFOLIATION
1. PRECESS OF REMOVING DEAD CELLS FROM THE STRATUM CORNIUM
2 CATEGORIES FOR EXFOLIATION
1. PHYSICAL/MECHANICAL EXFOLIATION
2. CHEMICAL EXFOL.
INTERCHANGABLE TERMS
1.SUPERFACIAL PL.- USE OF SCRUB
2.KERATOLYSIS- ENZYME &CHEMICAL
3.DESQUAMATION- NATURAL SHEDDING
CELL RENEWAL FACTOR
- CELL TURN OVER
-RATES OF CELL MITOSIS & MIGRATION FROM
THE STRATUM GER. TO STRATUM CORNIUM.
-PROCESS DECREASE WITH AGE.
AVERAGE CELL TURN OVER RATES
BABIES 14DYS
TEENS 21-28DYS
ADULTS 28-42DYS
AGE 50+ 42-84DYS
FACTORS INFLUENCING C.R.F.
1. GENETICS 4.LIFE STYLE
2.NTRL ENVIORMENT 5.PERSONAL CARE
3.MEDICAL HISTORY 6.EXFOLIATION METHOD
CHEMICAL EXFOLIATION
CHEMICAL PEELS ARE INTENDED TO REMOVE THE MOST OUTER LAYERS OF THE SKIN.
CHEMICAL EXF. "CAN'T
1. REMOVE DEEP WRINKLES.
2.REMOVE DEEP SCARRING/ACNE POCKETS.
3.REPAIRS SEEVER SUNDAMAGE.
4.CAUSE A LIFTING EFFECT ON THE SKIN.
CHEMICAL EXF. "CAN
1.IMPROVE SKIN TEXTURE.
2.EVENSKIN COLORING.
3.LIGHTEN PIGMENT.
4.IMPROVES FINE LINES& ROUGH TEXTUE.
LIST OF CHEM. EXFOLIATIONS
1.GLYCOLIC 6.SALICYLIC
2.LACTIC 7.ENZYME
3.TARTARIC 8.TCA
4.MALIC 9.PHENOL
5.MANDALIC
AHA PEELS
1.CITRIC 4.MANDALIC
2.GLYCOLIC 5.MALIC
3.LACTIC 6.TARTERTIC
BHA PEEL
1. SALICYLIC
SYNTHETIC PEELS
1.TCA
2.PHENOL
AHA'S A.K.A.
ALPHA HYDROXY ACID"
1.GENERIC NAME FOR A GROUP OF ACIDS
THAT OCCUR NATURALLY IN FOODS .
2.THEY ARE CALLED AHA'S BECAUSE THEY HAVE A HYDROXYL GROUP.
AHA'S& MOLECULAR WEIGHT
1. AHA'S ALL DIFFER IN THEIR MOLICULAR WEIGHT (M.W)
2.THE LARGER THE CARBON STRUCTURE AFTER THE ALPHA CARBON, THE HIGHER THE MW OF THE AHA
3. THE SMALLER THE MW THE MORE IT WILL PENETRATE
AHA WORK THREW 2 MAIN MECHANISMS OF ACTION
1. SKIN MOISTURISATION
2. STRATUM CORNIUM EXFOLIATION.
OTHER PROPERTIES OF AHA'S INCLUDE:
1. PROMOTES COLLAGEN FORMATION
2. DECREASE THE APPEARANCE OF WRINKLES
AHA'S CAUSE PHOTOSENSITIVITY
ALWAYS RECOMMED CLIENTS USE OF BROAD SPECTRUM W/ THE USE OF AHA'S.
AHA'S AS EXFOLIANTS
AHAS INCREASE DESQUAMATION BY DIMINISHING THE CORNEOCYTE COHESION AT THE LEVEL OF THE STRATUM CORNIUM (MAY BE 15-20 LAYERS )
SKIN HYDRATION
1. IS THE KEY TO SKIN WELL BEING.
2. SKIN HYDRATION CAN IMPROVE USING TOPICAL PRODUCTS, BUT AHA'S ALLOW THE SKIN TO RECOVER ITS NATURAL MOISTURE RETENTION CAPABILITIES.
WELL HYDRATED SKIN ALLOWS:
1. BETTER CELLULAR MOBILITY
2.IMPROVED EPIDERMAL MELABULISM
3.BETTER FUNCTIONING OF LANGERHANS CELL
4.INCREASED PENETRATION OF PRODUCTS
AHA'S& HYLURONIC ACIDS:
1. HA is an important element in skin moisturization
AHA'S stimulate epidermal& dermal production of HA which " " surface cells improving fine lines & wrinkles
PLUMPS
It is also a precursor of " " activity, which stimulates " " formation improving wrinkles in the long run.
FIBROBLAST, COLLAGEN
Because HA can hold a large amount of water " "its own weight) an increase in HA &an improvement in its function will dramatically increase the skin moistuization levels.
1000
Glycolic Acid
Sugar cane"
1. Photo damaged Skin
2.fine lines
3.Rough Texture
4.Congested skin
Lactic Acid
Sour Milk, Tomatoes"
1.Helps reduce Hyper pigmentation
2.Restores Hydration to the skin
3.Reduces fine lines and wrinkles
4.Found naturally in the human body.
"NO ALLERGIES RARELY
Tartaric Acid
Sour Grapes"
1.Gentle Exfoliatior
2.Great for sensitive skin
Malic Acid
Apples"
1.large molecule offers slower absorption into the skin
2.Great for sensitive skin and all Fitz
Mandalic Acid
Bitter Almonds"
1.Anti- aging, Anti- bacterial
2.Better choice for Darker fitz compared to lactic or glycolic acid
BHA'S
Beta Hydroxy Acid"
1. Have a hydroxyl group on the beta carbon or second carbon
Commonly used BHA'S INCLUDE:
Salicylic acid
Beta Hydroxybutanic Acid:
Breaks Down sugar Levels in the Blood.
Trethocanic Acid
Citric Acid
Salicylic Acid
Willow bark
sweet birch
wintergreen
Salicylic Properties
1. Keratolytic
AHA's work from the bottom of the skin up to exfoliate, where as BHA's work from top down to exfoliate.
2.OIL- DISSOLVING
3.ANTI-INFLAMMITORY
4.ANTI-MICROBICLE
5.ANTI-IRRITANT(RDCS ERTHYM CSD BY RSCA)
BHA's cause " ", USE " ".
PHOTOSENSITIVITY
wHEN PREFORMING A SALICYLIC CHEMICAL PEELS YOU WILL NOTICE " " ON THE SKIN.
CRYSTALLIZATION
1. PINK FROST DON'T GO OVER.
CONTRAINDICATIONS SAL
1.PREGNANCY&LACTIC
2.DRY SKIN
3. ASPRIN ALLERGY.
ENZYMES:
1. eNZYMES ARE PROTEOLYTIC- PROTEIN DISSOLVING.
2.Are commonly divided from fruits and veggies
Papain
papaya"
1. treat tenderizer, soften tissues and dissolve protein
Bromelian:
'"PineAppel