air-jet method
jet of high-velocity air is directed at a multifilament yarn, which separatesthe fibers, forcing some filaments to form loops and turns; result is a bulkier, less lustrous yarn
bare elastic yarn
usually composed of monofilament spandex fiber, used in power-stretch fabrics, provide softer and more gentle shape control than covered yarns
blended yarn
yarn made of two or more fiber types, spun yarns most widely used, usually done to combine desirable properties of different fibers, longer fibers tend to travel toward the center and shorter towards the outside
bulk-textured yarn
high bulk w low or minimal stretch. method for producing is stuffer-box method, which produces an increase in bulk from 200 to 300 percent and can be found in yarns made for carpets, filaments compressed into heated chamber and heat-set w wavy, random crimp --- relatively bulky, some degree of stretch, torque free
carded
all staple fibers have to be carded to help clean and disentangle them, is formed into a thick rope of loose fiber called sliver
chenille yarn
yarns that have a soft pile protruding from their surface, soft, supple, very flexible
combed
finer fabrics, carded fiber goes to combing unit, which further cleans the fibers and puts them in a parallel position, removing short fibers, has longer fibers, more parallel position, more uniform length, fewer impurities, and more uniformity
core-spun yarn
have a central filament core of spandex with staple fiber that has been spun around the core, the hand texture andappearance are identical to owhat the spun yarn would be without the core center, used in comfort stretch fabrics
cotton count system
for cotton and cotton blends, expressed by yarn size and yarn ply, specified as c.c. or Ne
covered elastic yarn
monofilaments wrapped or covered w a spun for filament yarn to hide the elastomeric yarn, tend to be thick and heavy, used in power-stretch fabrics, provide firmer and more powerful shape control than bare elastic yarns
crepe twist
some filament yarns purposely made with high twist to produce a pebbly, harsh surface effect - crepe filament yarns
decitex system
used to measure the weight in grams of 10000meters of length, often used when referring to a very low tex number
denier
system used for filament fibers and filament yarns, is a direct system because higher denier numbers designate heavier (thicker) yarn
false-twist method
most widely used technique for producing textured yarns in finer deniers; yarns are twister, heat-set, and untwisted in one operation
filament yarn
composed of continuous strands of fiber that may be miles long, produced directly from spinnerette or silk cocoon
gear crimping
passing filament yarn through series of heated rollers of gears that deform the filaments
growth
unrecovered stretch, can be kept to very low tolerable minimums
hard twist
spun yarns w relatively high tpi, causes them to be smoother, firmer, kinkier, and stronger
high-bulk (hi-bulk, turbo-bulk) yarn
acrylic spun yarns that are specially processed to yield lofty, bulky, and soft yarns without stretch
knife-edge method
process consists of passing filaments over a heated roll then pulling them over a sharp edge at an acute angle
knife-deknit method
way of producing a bulky yarn that has more stretch than yarn produced using stuffer-box or air-jet methods, filaments are knit into a narrow-diameter tubular form then rolled up, heat-set and unraveled
lea
linen yarns expressed by this term or NeL, used for flax jute hemp and ramie, almost never plied by the fiber length is so long, considered single yarns
line linen
composed of long fibers averaging 15 in, smooth and fine
metallic yarn
fine strip of metallic fiber, flat and ribbonlike, mostly used for decorat\ive rather than functional purposes
metric yarn count
system that expresses the number of kilometers of yarn per kilogram of weight, can be indicated by Nm except for cotton which is Ne
microfibers
fine fibers made of microfilaments, also known as microdenier
microfilament
fibers produced in diameters finer than silk, such as nylon, polyester, lyocell
mixture
fabric composed of two or more different types of yarn, also used to lower the cost of certain fabrics or add strength, sometimes referred to as a combination fabric
monofilaments
filament yarn composed of one single filament stiffer and less flexible than multifilament yarn of the same diameter
multifilaments
filament yarn composed of many filaments
novelty yarn
yarns not of uniform thickness throughout their length but have deliberate irregularities on their surfaces
open-end (oe) spinning
higher rates of production than ring spinning, saves space, power, and labor reqs - carded sliver fed to oe spinning unit, which separates fibers, twists them together, and wides them onto spools or cones
ply
two or more single yarns twisted together to form one new yarn
ring spinning
fibers are carded to bring them into a more parallel position and bundled into a loosely formed robe about one inch in diameter, known as sliver
ring-spun yarn
conventionally spun yarn, produces yarns with the softest hand available but costly
run
woolen and woolen blend yarns designated by this term, rarely plied and single yarns unless otherwise indicated
set-textured
textured yarns that undergo an additional heat-setting step in the texturizing process to set the yarn and eliminate or greatly minimize stretch
sewing thread
special kinds of yarns engineered and designed to pass through a sewing machine rapidly, to form a stitch efficiently, and to function while in a sewn product without breaking or becoming distorted
single
single spun yarn
soft twist
spun yarns with relatively low twist, softer, fluffier, more flexible, not as strong, knitting yarns
spun yarn
composed of relatively short lengths of fiber twister or spun so that they hold together
stretch-textured yarn
made primarily from nylon and used extensively in leotards, stretch leggings, pantyhose, and similar items. these yarns can be stretched from 30 to 50 percent of their relaxed length
tex system
direct system, intended to replace all existing systems with a single system for designating yarn sizes, uses grams per 1000 meters
textured yarn
when yarn is modified and takes on an entirely new surface or texture, most widely used of the comfort stretch yarns
thread size
size of thread - heavyweight thread should be used for heavyweight fabrics, lightweight for lightweight fabrics, and extra fine for sheer or fabrics made of microdenier yarns
tow linen
composed of short fibers and is irregular and rather coarse in texture, used for coarses types of linen fabrics
turns-per-inch or tpi
amount of twist in a yarn in terms of inches, important bearing on appearance and durability of the yarn and the fabric that will be made from it
turns-per-meter or tpm
amount of twist in yarn in terms of meters
woolen
made of carded yarns, fuzzier, more uneven diameter, bulkier, wider range of fiber length
worsted
made of combed yarns, smooth w little fuzz, has even diameter, more tightly twisted and firmer
worsted count system
worsted, worsted blends, acrylic fibers designated by w.c. or NeK, indicated in the reverse order from the cotton count system, ply/yarn size
yarn count
yarn count number is inversely proportional to weight, indirect
yarn number or size
xpresses relationship bt unit of length and weight and close relationship to diameter or thickness
yarn numbering system
used to express relationship bt unit length and weight of yarns, either direct or indirect