107.15

Thermal designing

The technique of druing and or designing hair by using a hand held shile simultaneioislh ising your fingers, a cariety of brushes, pressing comb and or thermal irons

How thermal design works

1. Hydrogen bonds are weakened or broken down by water or heat
2.protein chains shift and accept new temporary position
3.hear is removed and hair cools
4.bonds are reformed

Air form is also called

Blow drying

Concentrators

Focus airflow to a small area use for a smooth effect

Diffusers

Spread airflow over a larger area used from freeform drying techniques such as scrunching

Finger style

Technique in which fingers are used to manipulate and design the hair as it's dried with blow drier

Scrunching

Gently squeezing the hair lengths as the hair dries using diffuser

Air forming with brushes

Air forming with a blow dryer and a brush allows your to change the form direction and texture

Vent brush

Quickly dry the hair or to create specific directional movement such as waves

7 or 9 row brush

Smooth hair and creates a bevel effect

Round brush

Change texture patterns by adding waves or curls or by reducing curl pattern

Position of brush (volume)

Brush is positioned underneath the hair strand (upward)

Position of brush (indentation)

Brush is positioned top of hair strand (roll upward)

Names the four types of thermal iron

-curling irons
-flat iron
-crimping irons
-undulation irons

Thermal irons are first introduced in 1875 now are often called

Marcel irons

Electric curling iron

- the electric curling iron contains a heating element controlled by a thermostat that maintains a constant temperature
-never touch a curling iron with your fingers or placing it near your nose to smell if it is hot
- lower temperatures are recommended f

Cleaning thermal iron

The remove residue direction that the hair flows across the iron

Base to end

Position slightly away from base rotate 1/2 revolution at a time while feeling entire strand creates volume and support

End to base

@ the ends of the hair rotate upward toward the face curl reflects diameter (short hair)

Ends technique

Position
Volume underneath
Indentation upward
Rotation
Volume curled under
Indentation bevel up

Marcel waves

Barrel:top of the strand
Shell: beneath the strand
Alternate direction for the wave

Spiral

Vertically or diagonally
Spiral curls
Corkscrew effect

Flat (straightening) irons

Parts: between two heated flat plates
Function: straightening or sulking the hair

Crimping iron

Parts: two plates angular or serrated
Functions: crimped texture

Undulating irons

Parts: two undulating or curved plates "S"
Function: wavy along the hair

Hair pressing

First shampoo and conditioner
Next air form hair with brush using tension
Then apply protective oil or creme
Finally use a hot pressing comb on small sections

Two types of pressing comb

Stove heated
Electric pressing

Soft press

Pressing the hair once with less pressure and heat

Hard press

pressing action that is repeated twice with more pressure and heat

Fine texture

Treated gently
Less heat and pressure to avoid breakage

Medium texture

Least difficult to press
Requires no particular precautions

Coarse texture

Can be resistant
Can be more heat and pressure

A press and curl service involves pressing the hair when curling or waving the air with a

Thermal iron