bias
45 degree angle to the warp and filing directions
on grain
warp and filling yarns are aligned at 90 degree angles -- the yarns are perpendicular to one another
selvage
narrow edge of woven fabric that runs parallel to the warp. Made with stronger yarns in a tighter construction than the body of the fabric to prevent unraveling.
warp
yarn running lengthwise on the loom (from back to front), parallel to the selvage and perpendicular to the filing yarns. Stronger and closer together than filling yarns
weft
yarn running left to right when facing the loom, perpendicular to the selvage and warp yarns
balanced weave
woven construction in which the same size and the same number of threads per inch are used in both warp and filling directions. Strength and wrinkle recovery are similar in the warp and filing directions . 1:1
unbalanced weave
an unequal number of yarns when comparing the number of yarns per inch for the warp and weft. the weft direction contains larger or more specialized yarns than the warp, creates a ribbed effect on the fabric surface. Strength and wrinkle recovery are typically different in the warp and filling directions. (Taffeta, broadcloth, ottoman)
technical face
refers to the outer or upper side of the fabric as it is made
technical back
refers to the inner or under side of the fabric as it is made
tex
weight in grams of 1,000 meters of fiber or yarn
denier
weight in grams of 9,000 meters of fiber
indirect weighing
for spun yarns, measure certain weight and then measures length of the yarn
direct weighing
for filament yarns, measure a certain length and then weigh it
plain weave
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rib weave
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basket weave
--variation of plain weave where two or more yarns in the warp and/or filling directions are treated as a set
--thickness of each set of yarns is the same
--identified by the number of yarns in each set; warp x weft
--can be balanced or unbalanced
--oxford cloth, monk's cloth
twill weave
--Each weft or filling yarn floats across the warp yarns in a progression of interlacings to the right or left, forming a distinct diagonal line (wale)
--often designated as a fraction such as 2/1
----Numerator: raised harnesses
----Denominator: lowered harnesses
--Warp faced has a predominance of the warp yarn on the face of the fabric. They are more durable and more resistant to abrasion and pilling.
--Weft faced are seldom used. They are less durable than warp faced
--examples: challis, denim, gabardine, serge, drill, herringbone, houndstooth
wale
The distinct diagonal line in twill weaves
right hand twill
diagonals run upward to the right
left hand twill
diagonals run upward to the left (hand rule)
even sided twill
(reversible or balanced): exposes same amount of warp and filling, 2 up 2 down
NO FACE OR BACK
uneven twill
(unbalanced, not reversible): stronger and more abrasion resistant, 2 up, 1 down or 3 up, 1 down
satin weave
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satin
warp-faced satin weave, woven with smooth lustrous filament yarns for maximum luster on the face.
--rayon, polyester, acetate, silk
--crepe-back satin: produced with lustrous filament warp yarns and crepe filling yarns
--shantung satin: woven with lustrous filament warp and slub filling yarns.
--Moleskin: made with filament warp yarns and spun filling yarns. Technical back used as the design face is finished to give it a soft, suede-like-hand.
sateen
filling-faced (weft-faced) satin weave, woven with cotton yarns for a softer luster
performance and aesthetics of plain, twill, and satin weaves
PHYSICAL APPEARANCE
-Plain weave: matte appearance
-Twills: obvious diagonal ridges
-Satin weave: long floats used for high luster
DRAPE
-fabric count/construction affect fabric drape
-high count fabrics are stiffer
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
-more dimensionally stable than knit fabrics
SNAGGING
-open weave fabrics and fabrics with long floats may snag as the fibers on the surface of the yarn or the yarn itself is pulled during use.
STRETCH AND RECOVERY
-woven fabrics generally do not stretch
-may restrict body movement
-not used for tight fitting garments
TACTILE PROPERTIES
-satin weave fabrics with longer floats have smoother hand than weave fabrics
AIR PERMEABILITY
-openness of the weave directed related to fabric breathability. (open weave fabrics more breathable, compactly woven satin fabrics are less breathable)
STRENGTH
-twill = stronger than plain
-satin = not suitable when durability is needed
ABRASION RESISTANCE
-twill weave fabrics have the most, then plain, then satin
complex "fancy" weaves
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figure / novelty weaves
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dobby weave
simple designs require less yarn manipulation and can be made on harnessed loom using an attachment to raise and lower a limited number of yarns
small,simple geometric designs with straight lines in at least one direction
--created with an attachment that selectively raises and lowers the yarns to create the design
--design motif may be: spaced out on plain, twill or satin background. OR allover design like a waffle weave or huckaback.
jacquard weave
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damask
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brocade
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piqu�
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surface figure weaves
-require extra warp and/or filling yarns inserted during weaving to create a design. The three surface figure weaves are:
--spot (unclipped and clipped)
--Swivel
--Lappet
true tapestry weave
discontinuous filling yarns create patterns with color or texture
pile weave
-produced by inserting an extra set of warp or filling yarns during weaving to create a raised surface.
-The raised surface created by loops of the extra yarns, or the pile resulting from cutting the loops, can be on one or both sides of the base fabric.
-Defined by the direction the extra set of yarns is inserted to form loops or floats (warp-pile or weft-pile), or by the type of raised surface (loops or cut pile).
-terry cloth, velvet = warp-pile fabrics
-velveteen, corduroy = weft-pile weave
terry cloth
-uncut pile fabrics manufactured with an extra set of warp yarns to create the loop by slack-tension method.
-quality, cost, and durability depends on weave type (plain or twill), count of base cloth, and loop characteristics.
-has pile on both sides of the fabric. Some fabrics have pile on the face side only .
velvet
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velveteen
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corduroy
-pile weave
-filling-pile fabrics where the extra set of filling yarn forms floats (similar to velveteen). The floats are cut to create the pile in parallel lines along the length of the fabric.
- Ridges or cords, known as wales, along the length of the fabric are characteristic of corduroy.
-weft-pile
double cloth weave
-Divided into three categories based on the number of sets of yarns used to produce the fabrics.
--double cloth requires 5 sets of yarns
--double weave requires 4 sets of yarns
--double-faced requires 3 sets of yarns
double cloth
constructed with five sets of yarns
-- Two fabrics woven simultaneously, each with two sets of yarns; fifth set is binder set holding the two fabrics together.
-- If the binder yarns are removed, double cloth can be separated into two distinct fabrics.
double weave
constructed with two sets of warp and filling yarns.
-- The two fabrics are woven simultaneously and have some areas where the warp and/or filling yarns from one set are interlaced with the other. The two layers cannot be separated without destroying it.
double-faced
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leno weave
-warp yarns form a figure 8 around the filling yarns as they cross over to hold the filling yarns in place.
-Used to weave open construction fabrics as the filling yarns are held in place by the crossing of the two warp yarns around the filling yarns.
-Suitable for sheer curtains, apparel, vegetable bags, carpet backing, and industrial applications.
crepe weave
-produced with random interlacing of warp and filling yarns that results in an irregular surface.
-It is produced using a dobby attachment
--True Crepe: produced with crepe yarns (very high twist) in the warp and/or filling direction of plain or satin weave fabrics.
slack tension
-Seersucker fabrics are created using the slack tension weaving process in which sections of warp yarns have reduced tension. This results in bands or stripes of slightly puckered areas.
-The puckered look can also be is produced at a lower cost by application of chemicals such as caustic soda to shrink the stripes after the fabric has been woven (information included in the section on Finishing).
weaving momie
crepe effect
crepe effect by finish
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wales
a column of loops (looks like "V"s) lying lengthwise in the fabric. The upper loop is not visible. _________ per inch measures the fineness of the fabric and yarn size.
fabric count for knits
is "the number of wales and courses per inch in a knit fabric. Written as number of wales x number of courses. Count for a fabric with 18 wales per inch and 21 courses per inch is written as 18 x 21 and read as 18 by 21. Fabric count for knits is often lower for wovens."*
fabric weight
--lightweight: 135 g/m^2
--medium weight: 136-200 g/m^2
--heavy weight: more than 200 g/m^2
warp-faced
you see more of the warp yarns on the front of the fabric because there are more floats in the warp than in the weft
weft-faced
you see more of the weft yarns on the front of the fabric because there are more floats in the weft than in the warp
basic shuttle loom
warp beam
warp yarns wound around large cylinder to hold them in place
harness
frame that holds heddles and controls basic weave
heddle
wire with a hole or eyelet in its center through which a warp yarn is threaded
shed
Space created by warp when some harnesses rise and others lower - splitting the warps for picking
reed or batten
Pushes or beats the filling yarns in place to make a fabric firmer
("beating up") filling yarns tightly against fabric
warp weighted loom
the warp yarns are hung with weights so that they are tense - rather than winding them around warp beam
backstrap loom
warp is held tense by the person pulling/ holding it - least technologically advanced method
shuttleless looms
quicker, quieter than shuttle powered looms
ex) projectile, rapier, jet, air-jet, and water-jet looms
how does the number of harnesses relate to the number of floats
the harness controls the heddles and influences when the warps float or interlace with the wefts
ends per inch
warp ends
picks per inch
weft ends
warping / dressing the loom
yarns threaded through heddles in harness specific to the type of weave (controls the structure)
shedding
raising / lowering harnesses in sequence to separate warp yarns
picking
inserting weft yarn
beating up
pushing warp yarn next to previous filling yarn with reed
take up
winding already woven fabric onto a beam
light weight
less than 135g/mm, less than 4 oz/ydyd
medium weight
between 135-200 g/mm, 4-6 oz/ydyd
heavy weight
more than 200 g/mm , more than 6 oz/ ydyd
narrow fabrics
less than 1 ft in width
ex) seatbelts
leno selvage
the type of weave pictured at the edge parallel to the warp yarns in order to ensure stay
fringe selvage
regular or plain selvage
constructed of the simple plain weave with the same size yarns as the rest of the fabric, but with the threads packed more closely together.
tucked-in selvage
fringe selvage ends are tucked back into the fabric. Most often used on shuttleless looms
fabric count indication format
(warp , weft)
add together for total amount of thread per inch
shuttle weft insertion
carries own yarn insertion across the warp
shuttle just pulled across the loom as an entire piece; most common
rapier weft insertion
rapier head grips the yarn and carries it across the width of the shed
single rigid rapier
rapier goes across the entire warp / width of loom
double rigid rapier
two rapiers meet in the middle; one hands off the thread
double flexible rapier
use a metal tape (kinda like a tape measure on ether side) that projects and meets in the middle similar to double rigid rapier
SAVES SPACE
double telescoping rapier
use sliding / compressing system.
similar to double rigid rapier but has a spring like system on the ends to save space and time
projectile weft insertion
similar to a shuttle weft insertion but the projectile must be given a yarn before it is propelled across the warp shed
fed through guide teeth and returned to the picking station by a conveyor belt . several can be used at the same time
air jet weft insertion
high pressure air forces the yarn across the warp shed . fastest method
require expensive profile reeds
water jet weft insertion
uses same concept as air jet but yarn must be hydrophobic in order for it to work