chapter 14 mens hair

Produces weight, bulk, and maximum length at the perimeter of a design

0

texturizing technique similar to razor-over-comb, done with small circular motions

razor rotation

graduated effect achieved by cutting the hair with elevation or overdirection; the hair is cut at higher elevations, usually 90 degrees or above, which removes weight

layers

finish work of a haircut with shears, trimmers, or razor

outlining

combing a section away from its natural falling position, rather than straight out from the head, toward a quideline: used to create increasing lengths the interior or perimeter

overdirection

widest area of the head, also known as the crest, hatband, horseshoe, temporal region

parietal ridge

a line, created naturally or with a comb, that divides the hair at the scalp, separating one section of the hair from another

part

a line dividing the hair of the scalp that separates one section of the hair from another or creates subsections from a larger section of hair

parting

angle or elevation that hair is held at from the head for cutting

projection

design principle that measures or shows the comparative relationship between two or more design elements of a form

proportion

texturizing technique in which the comb and the razor are used on the surface of the hair

razor-over-comb

points on the head that mark where the surface of the head changes or the behavior of the hair changes, such as ears, jawline, occipital bone, and apex; used establish design lines that are proportionate

reference points

the art of arranging the hair in a particular style that is appropriately suited to the cut

hairstyling

method used to put the hair into position for cutting by combing into the hair with the teeth of the comb in an upward direction

rolling the comb out

haircutting technique in which the hair is held in pla�e with the comb while the shears are used to remove length

shear-over-comb

haircutting technique used to thin out difficult areas in the haircut, such as dips and hollows

shear-point tapering

guideline that does not move, but all other hair is brought to it for cutting

stationary guide

haircuts in which there is an even blend from very short at the hairline to the head; to taper is to narrow progressively longer lengths as you move at one end

taper

amount of pressure applied when combing and holding section, created by stretching or pulling the section

tension

removing excess bulk without shortening the length; changing the appear- ance or behavior of hair through specific haircutting techniques using shears, thinning shears, clippers, or a razor

texturizing

removing bulk from the hair

thinning

guideline that moves as the haircutting progresses; used when creating layers or graduation; also referred to as moving or movable guidelines

traveling guide

lines that are straight up and down

vertical lines

lines parallel to the horizon

horizontal lines

the process that occurs when coiled hair is allowed to develop in its natural state without the use of combs, heat, or chemicals

hair locking

the space between two lines or surfaces that intersect at a given point; haircutting, the hair is held away from the head to create an angle of elevation

angle

cutting of the hair is performed with the palms of both hands facing each other; an alternative method used in layering vertical or horizontal sectione hair

cutting palm-to-palm

method used to cut around the ears and down the sides of the neck

arching

the equal or appropriate proportions that create symmetry and harmony design

balance

technique of drying and styling damp hair in one process

blowdry styling

cutting over a comb with the clippers

clipper-over-comb

the widest area of the head, also known as the parietal ridge, temporal region, hatband, or horseshoe

crest

the process of parting off subsections opposite from the elevation or direction at which they were cut to check the precision of cutting lines or blending

cross-checking

cutting of the hair is performed on the outside of the fingers; used with horizontal or vertical 90-degree projections of hair

cutting above the fingers

cutting of the hair is below or performed on the inside of the fingers; used in 0- and 45-degree elevation cutting

cutting below the fingers

the position of the fingers when cutting a section of hair

cutting line

usually the perimeter line of a haircut

design line

section of hair, located at either the perimeter or the interior of the cut, that determines the length the hair will be cut to; also referred to as a guideline; usually the first section that is cut to create a shape

guide

angle or degree at which a subsection of hair is held, or elevated, from the head when cutting; also referred to as projection

elevation

lines positioned between horizontal and vertical lines

diagonal lines

the ability to picture or see something in your mind

envision

oval, round, inverted triangular, square, oblong, diamond, and pear-shaped are the seven facial shapes

facial shape

cutting technique performed by holding the hair section between the fingers and cutting either from the top to the bottom of the section or from one side to the other; also known as freehand slicing with a razor

fingers-and-razor cutting

technique used to cut hair by holding the hair into a position to be cut

fingers-and-shear

the outline or shape of a design

form

generally interpreted to mean that guards are not used in the cutting process

freehand clipper cutting

cutting with shears without the use of fingers or a comb to control the hair

freehand shear cutting

method of removing bulk from a hair section with the shears

freehand slicing

visual line in the haircut, where the ends of the hair hang together; the line of maximum length within the weight area: heaviest perimeter area of a 0-degree (one-length) or 45-degree (graduated) cut

weight line