pique
-Floats cause a raised effect
-Ridges called wales vary in width
-Stuffer yarns: laid under the ridges to support the raised effect, not interlaced with the surface yarns
Dobby
-check the fabric appearance of Bird's eye, Waffle cloth, and Madras
-Small repeating geometric design
-Usually an eight harness loom which limits the complexity of the design
Jacquard
-check the fabric appearance of Damask, Brocade, and Tapestry
-Large figure design with no repeating pattern
extra yarn weaves
-Additional warp or filling yarns of different colors or types are woven into the fabric to create a pattern
-small repeating design
- if yarns are removed, ground fabric will remain
- extra yarns float across the reverse side of the fabric when not used
dotted swiss
-extra yarn weave
- floats are clipped close to the design
momie weave
-No wale or distinct weave effect
-Yarns, not parallel
-Gives a pebble-like surface that looks like a true crepe
how to produce Leno weave and chenille yarns
-Warp yarns work in groups, usually groups of 2 (#89 / #118)
-Firmness, strength
double cloth weave
-5 sets of yarns
-2 layers of fabric: 2 sets of warp (2 warp beams) + 2 sets of filling (2 shuttles or 2 filling devices )
-1 set in between (warp) strength, thickness, and stiffness
-2 separate fabric layers are woven with the 5th yarn (warp)
-Reversible
double weave
-4 sets of yarns
-2 sets of warp + 2 sets of weft
-2 separate fabric layers are interlocked periodically
-Between the interlocking points, 2 fabric layers are separated creating pockets pocket weave
double-faced double cloth
-3 sets of yarns
-2 sets of warp + 1 set of filling
-1 set of warp + 2 sets of filling
-1 layer of fabric with each side a different color
what is. known as true double cloth?
double cloth
what is known as pocket weave to pocket cloth?
double weave
slack tension weave
a weave in which two warp beams are used with one beam at regular loom tension and the other beam at a lower tension for weaving
stripes on slack tension
warp direction
seersucker
-slack tension weave
-ripple areas, usually forming warp direction stripes
Filling Pile fabrics
-3D structure by weaving an extra set of warp or filling yarns into the ground yarn
-Two sets of filling yarns and one set of warp yarns ground fabric + extra filling yarns
- cut pile along warp yarn
corduroy
lengthwise wales on the surface
Cut floats in horizontal direction
Long staple combed cotton
filling pile fabric
velveteen
no wales, even pile over the base fabric, more body
Long staple combed cotton
filling pile fabric
double cloth method
2 sets of warp + 1 set of filling
Fabric name: Velvet
Face to face method of weaving produces 2 layers of velvet cloth The knife cuts through the middle during weaving
w-pile fabrics
Less filling pile
More resistant to shedding
Less dense
More durable
cut pile along the filling direction
v-pile fabrics
pile warp interlaces with 1 weft yarn in each cloth
More pile
Less resistant to shedding
Denser
Less durable
over wire method
2 sets of warp + 1 set of filling
Fabric name: Friez�
A single fabric wire with a hook and a knife (for cut loops)
slack-tension pile method
1 set of warp + 1 set of filling
Fabric name: Terrycloth
Three fillings with one motion
The first two filling yarns are not beaten up tight
knitting structure
Interlooping of yarn(s) to form a fabric
Knit fabric: a series of stitches or loops
Open loops vs. closed loops( Most filling knits have open loops)
weaving production
Interlacing: two of more sets of yarns
Warp and filling yarns
Cut and sew
Slow production rate
Less yarns required
Machinery less adaptable to rapid changes in fashion
knitting production
Interlooping: series of interconnected loops
One or more yarn(s)
Cut and sew (or) finished products directly on the knitting machine
Faster production rate
More yarns required to produce fabric (usually heavier)
Design patterns can be changed quickly to m
knitting properties
Sheer to heavyweight fabrics
Plain and fancy knits
Elasticity adaptable to body movement
Stretchy
Air permeable
Open spaces between loops winds and moisture penetrate
Insulation varies
Good recovery from wrinkles
Less stable in use/care
Higher shrinkage
weaving properties
Sheer to heavyweight fabrics
Plain and fancy weaves
Stable to stress (unless made with stretch yarns)
More rigid
Less air permeable, especially if count is high
Bulk and wrinkle recovery vary with the weave and yarn type
More stable in use/care
Lower shri
knit stitch
upside down v-shape
purl stitch
-alternate U-shape (wavy)
-Looks the same on both front and back (Reversible)
-Forms a fabric that looks on both sides like the technical back of a basic-knit fabric
-Slow production rate
-Expensive
-Requires special machines
tuck stitch
to create a fancy knit with a pattern in the fabric
Texture, thicker, less stretch
float or miss stitch
-to create a fancy knit with a pattern in the fabric
-Yarns float on fabric back when not used to create design on fabric face
-Less stretch
wale
a vertical column of stitches
A single wale: a stitch
On a machine, each wale is formed by a single needle
course
a horizontal row of stitches
A course: a row of stitches
fabric density
wales and courses per inch
expressed as wales by courses (ex. 32 x 44)
loop structure
Filling knitting (horizontal loop formation) / Warp knitting (vertical loop formation)
hand knitting
filling knits
machine knitting
Filling knits: Flatbed knitting machine vs. Circular knitting machine
Warp knits: Tricot knitting machine vs. Raschel knitting machine
full fashioning
Fabric knitted to shape by adding/reducing stitches on a flatbed knitting machine
jersey front and back
front: Wales are prominent
back: courses are prominent
properties of single filling knits
Flatbed or circular machine
Basic-knit or fancy
Textured surface / weight
Less durable
Tend to curl at the cut edge toward the face
Ran, snag easily
Fabrics: plain jersey, jersey variation, jacquard jersey, intarsia, pile jersey, weft-insertion jersey
Jacquard jersey
Fancy figured single jersey
Pattern and texture on the front vs. floats on the back
intarsia
Patterned single-knit fabric
Clear pattern on both sides no pattern shadows (cf. Jacquard jersey)
no extra weight
Mock intarsia design
pile jersey
Similar look to woven pile but more pliable and stretchy
(1) cut or uncut loops of yarn, (2) fibers
cut or uncut loops of yarns in pile jersey examples
Knit terrycloth (uncut)
Velour (cut)
fibers in pile jerseys examples
silver-pile knits
fake furs
Pile jersey vs. woven pile fabric identification
check the back of the fabric. If you see knit stitches, the fabric is pile jersey. If you see warp yarns and filling yarns, the fabric is woven pile.
weft insertion jersey
- additional yarn is laid in a course when the fabric is knitted
- Additional weft yarns increase crosswise stability
-Crosswise stability/strength
-Visual interest with colored/textured yarns
-Comfort when the yarn is napped
double knit structures
Double bed flat (V-bed) or circular machines
One or more sets of yarns
Double-faced fabric
Knitting pattern determined by the arrangement of the needles: gait (ex. rib gaiting, interlock gating, etc.)
Two-way stretch
Dimensional stability
Do not curl at t
Rib structures include:
Loops alternately pulled to front and back of fabric
Form lengthwise "ribs" (wales)
Knit side x purl side double-faced
1x1, 2x2, 2x3, 3x2, etc.
Reversible, not identical
Balanced rib (identical front and back) vs unbalanced rib (different front and back)
interlock
Looks like jersey on front
Identical appearance front and back (both sides V-shape) double-faced
Firm, stable than plain jersey (stretch crosswise, little stretch lengthwise)
Less likely to stretch out
Polo shirts
jacquard knit
Patterned / figured double knits
By changing yarn type, color, or stitch type
Pattern and texture one side or both sides
No floats on the back
warp knits
Vertical loop structure
More stable/rigid than filling knits
Mostly filament yarns (durable, strong)
Lock stitch( Vertical potion of loops on the face and Horizontal portion of loops on the back)
Stretch in cross direction
Curl at the edge
tricot (warp knit)
Filament yarns (typically nylon)
Swimwear, underwear, shapewear, athletic apparel, pantyhose, etc.
Smooth surface with fine gauges
Curl at the edges when cut
Little elasticity lengthwise, some elasticity crosswise
Very lightweight to very heavyweight
Vari
Rachel knits (warp knit)
Openwork knits (nets, mesh, lace, etc.)
Imitating lace as less expensive lace-like fabric
Stretch in cross direction
fabrics from solution (film and foam)
Foams by incorporation air
Both films and foams are not durable by itself and backed with other fabric substrate
fabrics from fibers (felt)
The oldest method to produce fabric
Made of wool fibers
Based on wool scales, moisture and heat sensitive
dry-laid fiberwebs
Fibers oriented or random in the fiberweb
wet-laid fiberwebs
Fibers + water->remove the water -> fibers in random direction
spun-bonded fiberwebs
Synthetic (thermoplastic) fibers immediately after extrusion in random direction
spun-laced fiberwebs
Filaments + water jet-> short fibers (hydroentangling, perforated design in the fiberweb depending on water jet pattern)
Melt-blown fiberwebs
Filaments + high-velocity heated air ->short fibers
fabric production (bonding)
Needle punching: barbed needle, mechanical
Chemical adhesives / solvent bonding
Thermal fusion
when the fiberweb is made of heat-sensitive synthetic fibers
fabrics from animals
The main chemical composition: protein
Leather
leather
Full grain ->top grain (higher quality, expensive) + split leather (lower quality, less expensive)
tanning is to make leather...
pliable
vegetable tanning
tree barks, traditional method, environmentally-friendly, time-consuming, expensive
chrome tanning
using chromium, harmful chemical, environmental/health problem
oil tanning
using (natural) oils or/and waxes
alum tanning
for white leather
coated fabirc
Textile fabric + a polymer film
Impermeable to water and air, uncomfortable to the skin
poromeric fabrics
Textile fabric + Stretched microporous film (ex. Gore-Tex membrane)
Micropores: smaller than liquid water droplets, larger than water vapor
Waterproof, windproof, breathable, comfortable
flocking
Base fabric + short surface fibers to imitate pile weaves/knits
Localized areas or overall pile on the fabric
tuffing
Base fabric + threaded pile (loop or cut)
Secondary backing or adhesive used to stabilize tufted-pile fabric
Most widely used method of producing carpets
Laminated fabric
Face fabric + liner + backing fabric
For backing fabric, tricot knits are common
Pleather: PVC film + backing fabric, artificial leather to imitate the hand and texture of leather
stitch-bonded fabric
Thread-stitching (quilting stitching)
Heat-stitching (or ultrasonic quilting) when fiber layers used are thermoplastic
Identify each quilting appearance on fabric
damask
identical pattern on front and back, but an opposite color combination
brocade
pattern is identifiable from back, but not clear
velvet
when an extra yarn set is placed in the warp direction pull out one yarn from either filling and warp direction and identify the direction of the pile
tricot identification
v on front and < on back / similar to plain jersey on front, so please check the back / made of filament fibers