Fabric Count
the number of warp and filling yarns per square inch of gray goods
Balance
ratio of warp yarns to filling yarns in a fabric
interlacing
the point at which a yarn changes its position from one side of the fabric to the other
Woven Fabric
made by interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles to each other
Grain
the position of warp yarns relative to filling yarns in the fabric
Selvage
the edge of a fabric that is woven so that it will not ravel or fray
Weft
-filling yarn
a crosswise yarn or thread in a weave
horizontal
Warp
a lengthwise yarn or thread in a weave
-vertical
Knit Fabric
fabric made by intertwining yarn or thread in a series of connected loops rather than by weaving
Wales
Corduroy is a textile with a distinct pattern, a "cord
Courses
horizontal rows of stitches
Gauge
indicates fineness of stitch
# of needles in specific distance on needle bar and expressed needles per inch
Non-woven Fabric
are broadly defined as sheet or web structures bonded together by entangling fiber or filaments
Structural Design
texture or interest built into fabrics when they are manufactured
Shuttle
a device used in weaving for passing the thread of the weft between the threads of the warp
heddles
a wire with a hole or eyelet in its center through which a warp yarn is threaded
reed
-batten
-beats or pushes filling yarn into place to make fabric firm
-looks like a box
Cloth beam
the cylinder of a loom on which cloth is rolled as it is woven
Spun yarn
a continuous strand of staple fibers held together in some way
-fuzzy surface, protruding fiber ends, short fibers that pull apart
-partially parallel fibers
Filament yarn
always made from manufactured fibers, except filament silk
-extruding polymer solution through spinneret and solidifying it in fiber form
Multifilament yarn
composed of many filaments fibers
Monofilament yarn of same diameter is stiffer, less flexible than multifilament yarn of same diameter
Mono-filament yarn
single-course-filament fiber
-used mostly for technical products
BCF
bulk continuous filament yarns
-textured filament yarns
-do not pill or shed, greater volume
Novelty yarn
- Boucle, Ratin�, Chenille, Composite, BCF, Metallic
Boucle
-loop or curl
-closed loops at regular intervals along yarn
-used to give texture to other fabrics
Ratin�
spiral effect with loops at intervals
-effect ply twisted around ground ply
Chenille
-cut ends of the softly twisted yarns loosen and form a fringe
composite yarns
have both staple and filament fiber components
-include covered yarns, core-spun, filament wrapped, and molten polymer yarns
Strength: what makes yarns stronger?
high fiber count
Full basket weave
Two or more yarns grouped together for one plain weave, (2x2) (4x4)
half basket weave
(2x1) or (1x2)
Balanced plain weave
each warp interlaces with each filling
-1x1
-wrinkles, ravels, less absorbent
unbalanced plain weave
a plain weave with many more yarns in one direction than the other
Even sided
expose equal amount of warp and filling yarn on each side of fabric
-
warp faced twills
predominance of warp yarns on face of fabric
ex. denim, chino
Degree of twill angles
: regular, reclining, steep
regular twill angle
45 degree angle
warp per inch- 7
filling per inch-8
Steep-twill fabrics
have a high warp count and are stronger in the warp direction
greater diff. between # of warp and filling yarns the steeper it is
63 degree angle, warp-12 filling-8
reclining twill
Shallow twill with a wale angle of 35 degrees or less
warp-6 filling- 8
Warp faced satins
crepeback satin
satin almost always warped
-warp floats cover surface
filling faced satin weave
floats run in filling (weft) direction; usually spun yarns; sateen is most common fabric
Fancy weaves
: Dobby, Leno, Pique, Jacquard, Extra Yarn, Slack Tension
Dobby weave
a small symmetrical pattern repeats, formed by adjusting the harness attached to on a plain loom
Leno weave
weave in which the warp yarns do not lie parallel to each other
-meshlike
Pique weave
fabric with ridges, wales, or cords held up by floats on back
Jacquard weave
refers to large-figured designs that require more than 25 different arrangements of the warp yarns to complete one repeat design
Extra Yarn weave
Additional warp or filling yarns of different colors or types are woven into the fabric to create a pattern
Slack Tension weave
a weave in which two warp beams are used with one beam at regular loom tension and the other beam at a lower tension
-seersucker and terrycloth
Crepe/Momie Weave
unstructured interlacing pattern
-gives fabric appearance of being sprinkled with small spots
Pile weave
3d structures made by weaving extra set of warp or filling yarns to make loops or cut the ends
-three sets of yarns, one of which creates a texture in the fabric
-corduroy, velvet, and terrycloth
Seersucker
made by slack tension weave
-slack yarns crinkle
tapestry
hand-woven fabric to produce a design/piece of art
damask
jacquard woven fabric
-satin floats on a satin background
-floats in design are opposite those in ground
brocade
satin or twill floats on plain, twill, or satin background
-floats in design are more varied in length and usually several colors
leno fabric
marquisette
yarns crossed and one yarn of pair is always above other
double cloth
Made from 3 or more sets of yarns; heavier and has more body than single cloth.
houndstooth
2x2
woven twill fabric design of continuous broken checks or four-pointed stars; also called four-and-four check.
herringbone
even sided twill
-pattern rows of short, slanted parallel lines with the direction of the slant alternating
-resembles fish backbone
velvet
pile height of an inch or less
usually made with filaments
corduroy
a cut-pile fabric with vertical ribs or wales, usually made of cotton.
denim
a coarse durable twill-weave cotton fabric
shantung
a heavy silk fabric with a knobbly surface.
unbalanced plain weave
duck fabric
made with single or ply yarns
-courser
-slipcovers, boat covers, shoe fabrics
organdy
a plain woven fabric that is fine and sheer, with a crisp finish, often used for dresses.
gabardine
a smooth, durable twill-woven cloth, typically of worsted or cotton
-warp faced steep
tweed fabric
made from any fiber or blend of fibers
-novelty yarns with nubs of diff colors
gingham
yarn dyed fabric in checks, plaids or solids
medium weight
chambray
dyed warp yarn one color and dyed filling different color
sateen
a strong, lustrous cotton fabric made in a satin weave
antique satin
novelty filling yarns add visual interest to fabric
filling faced satin
crepe back satin
the warp yarns are fine and have little or no twist, and the filling yarns are highly twisted.
-dresses blouses
Oxford cloth
2x1 half basket weave or 3x2
-medium weight, soft, porous
monk's cloth
usually off white
full basket weave
-interior textiles
Voile fabric
sheer fabric made with high twist or spun yarns that are combed or worsted
Chiffon
smaller yarns with a hard twist
-very thin gauze used for trimmings, evening dress
Batiste
opaque fabric
-made of cotton, wool, polyester, or blend
challis
A lightweight woven fabric, usually with a small floral design, often used for pajamas, dresses, and blouses.
spun carded yarns
Weft knits
Knits made with only one yarn that runs crosswise forming a horizontal row of interlocking loops.
warp knits
Knits made with several yarns creating loops that interlock in the lengthwise direction.
Various weft knit stitches
: knit, purl, tuck, and float
knit stitch
The basic knitting stitch, also called the plain stitch
jersey
purl stitch
The reverse of the knit stitch. Back of jersey knit is a purl stitch configuration
tuck stitch
formed when a knitting needle holds its old loop and then receives a new yarn
float stitch
creates patterns by floating yarns across the surface. Can incorporate multiple colors of yarns
single weft knits
jersey, rib, purl
double weft knits
-double jersey
-interlock
-double knit
-jacquard double knit
Jersey knit
Most common type of weft knit. It curls at the edges and is used for sweaters, t-shirts, and tights/hosiery
jersey jacquard knit
figured single jersey made using jacquard mechanism
tricot knit
Have very fine vertical wales on the right side and crosswise courses on the back. Used for lingerie and underwear. A warp knit (made with several yarns on a flat knitting machine).
raschel knit
rows of chainlike loops called pillars
-laid-in yarns in lapping configurations
-fabric comes apart lengthwise
rib knit
-ridges of Wales visible on both sides
-excellent elongation and elastic recovery due to the double needle bed knit structure
- used for cuffs, hems, and neckline trim finishes and can produce body hugging garments.
interlock knit
simplest double-knit fabric produced
-composed of two 1x1 rib structures
firmer, do not curl, softer
felt fabric
a mat or web of wool, or mostly wool, fibers held together by the interlocking of the wool scales
nonwoven fiber webs
all textile sheet structures made from fibrous webs, bonded by mechanical fiber entanglement
needle-punched fabric
dry-laid web passed through needle loom that interlocks fibers mechanically
Composite
- quilt, coated/laminated, foam/fiber, flocked, lace
quilted fabrics
consist of three-layer fabrics with batting in the middle, usually held together by machine stitching.
Coated/Laminated Fabric
two layers of fabric are combined into one with and adhesive or foam
foam/fiber
made by incorporating air into plasticlike substance
flocked fabric
fine natural or synthetic surface fiber is applied to surface of base fabric after production
lace fabric
openwork fabric with complex patterns or figures, can be hand or machine made
Leather
- animal products
-processed from skins and hides of animals