design driven firms
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merchandise driven firms
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original designs
method of achieving a new style: sketched or draped
style modification
method of achieving a new style: previously used and proven styles
knockoffs
method of achieving a new style: made from samples of other firm's styles purchased at retail (derivative design process)
item line
- Also called a separates line
- Line contains categories of styles, like shirts, jackets, etc.
- Allows retailer to merchandise their floor using different lines
- Product developer for this type of line tends to be expert
- Product developer must jump on trends faster
- Item line lends itself to basics
- Items are most often replenished and only marked down at the end of the season and haven't moved
group line
- Also called a coordinate line
- A group line provides a selection of styles and silhouettes that are merchandised to be worn in a mix and match format
- A collection is divided into groups
- Each group has a different delivery date
- Encourages sale of multiple items because they work together
- Provides consumers with a range of choices
- Inspires consumer confidence
- Coordinate groups are on the floor 6 to 10 weeks and marked down after 4 to 6 weeks
pricing
- determines where the product will be sold
- affects customer's perception of quality
- determines the volume of product that will be produced
- affects the materials that will be used for the product
fashion level
different needs:
-trend
-style preference
-fit needs
timing considerations
- Different seasons are more important than others, depending on the category of clothing
- Different seasons require more sku's than others (i.e. fall/winter, spring/summer�more sku's transition, resort-less sku's.)
balancing the line
factors to consider when merchandising a line
size
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color
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volume
- Not all styles sell at the same rate or the same volume
- Depending on your target market, some sizes will sell more than others
- Styles/colors with less "customer appeal" will not sell at the same volume as more palatable designs
distribution
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croquis sketches
Sketch of garment on a full body silhouette of your target customer
flats
Drawings of garments as they would look laying on a flat surface
technical flats
- More accurate and precise
- Garment details and trim accurate
- "Callouts" of special details/features
style or story boards
Presentation boards that include flats, fabrics, and different color ways
draping
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pattern drafting
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flat pattern drafting
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reverse engineering
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computerized pattern making system
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body scan technology
- 3 dimensional measurements are taken of individual customer's bodies
- Measurements are used to develop patterns digitally
pattern making needs of design driven firms
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pattern making needs of merchandise driven firms
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in-house pattern maker
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pattern making services
- Less expensive than an in-house pattern maker
- Usually local and more accessible than overseas contractors
- Usually domestic so they are more familiar with domestic body types
- Takes on full responsibility of pattern making and 1st sample
- Not interested in design, just making a serviceable pattern
- Used by lower tiers of fashion
- Usually overseas, so they are less familiar with American body types
- Distance between contractor and product developer make communication hard
- Process of fit, and check becomes longer and more time consuming
standards
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government agencies
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specifications
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design spec stage
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preliminary cost sheet stage
- Done concurrently with 1st sample
- Estimates cost of fabric and materials based on the making of one sample one sample only
- Estimates cost of production and distribution
- May estimate shipping, quotas, insurance, etc.
- Includes fabric info, price, and quality necessary
- Gives product developers an idea of whether the styles is feasible for the line
- Gives product developers a baseline idea of the necessary expenditures
technical spec stage
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production spec stage
- Happens during production planning
- Based on the production go multiple garments
- Preliminary cost sheets are amended to reflect actual costs
- Will include an operations list (SAM)
- Identifies the kinds of stitches and seams will be necessary (whether functional or decorative
sizing
The process of compartmentalizing consumers into groups that have certain body measurements in common
size us
A research study developed by The Department of Commerce, (TC2) Body Scanner and industry professionals. Completed in 2003.
standard table of body measurements
- Data compiled by the Dept. of Commerce on body measurements of female members of the military (1941)
- Subjects were mostly young and caucasian
- Not representative of other ethnicities or age groups
- Standards we revised in the 70's then revoked
- American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) came up with new standards in 1994
- Standards are recommended, but not mandated
- Some companies can choose to not use them or to adapt them to suit their own consumer
fit
Refers to how the garment conforms to the shape and size of the wearer
grain
- Refers to the direction of the threads in the fabric
- If warp is perfectly placed to run along the center front and center back of garment, and weft is perfectly blocked at a 90 degree angle, the garment will hang evenly
line
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set
- Refers to achieving a smooth fit
- If garment has wrinkles, it means that it's too tight and pulling at the seams or too loose and wrinkles are forming where the fabric sags
balance
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ease
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fit model
A professional model who's body measurements represent those of your target customer
grading
The process of scaling a pattern into all the sizes the garment will come in
size migration
The same person being able to fit into several sizes depending on the cut of the garment and the manufacturer
grading rules
Specs outlining the measurement increments that you should go up between sizes
grade
The difference in measurements between sizes
sample size
Represents the body measurements from which a full size range will be developed
vanity sizing
Putting a smaller size label on a larger size garment
Bias Cut
two different fabrics grain at a 90 degree angle
Functional Ease
the ease necessary to make the garment wearable
Design Ease
the ease necessary in order to achieve the look that the designer intended for the style
parameters of line development
pricing, fashion level, timing considerations
fashion continuum
fashion goods............basics
season continuum
seasonal goods.......staple goods
assortment variety and sku management
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how patterns get made
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spec development stages
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5 elements of fit
1. balance
2. grain
3. ease
4. line
5. set
fashion goods
fashion forward and more trendy styles
basics
styles considered classics
seasonal goods
holiday/season specific
staple goods
sold year round