knitting
the formation of a fabric by inter-looping of one or more yarn sets
characteristics of knit fabrics
-Quick process: 4 times faster than weaving
-Made on wider machines
-Versatile process
-Yarns must be much more regular: filament or combed/worsted
-Requires more yarn than woven fabrics
-Fabric: porous, bulky, lofty, warm, wrinkle resistant, low in cover
advantages of knitting
-Develop a Complete Garment
-Production Rate Faster
-Versatile and Efficient
-Comfort and Appearance Retention
disadvantages of knitting
-Cost of Yarns
-Snagging
-Bagging
-Shrinkage
-Insulating Quality : Porous
wales
vertical column of stitches
course
horizontal rows of stitches
gauge or cut
number of needles per inch
technical knit face
-Better finish
-More expensive and finer yarns
-Least snaggable floats
-Pronounced design
weft/filling knit fabrics
Yarns move horizontally
Single Knits
-Less Stable
-Curl at Edges
-Runs Easily
End Products of Weft Knits
Hosiery, Underwear, Shirts, T-shirts, Dresses, Sweaters
characteristics of double knits (weft knits)
-2 Way Stretch
-Good Stability
-Do Not Curl
-Less Likely Stretch Out of Shape
-Look Like Woven
looping
joining shoulder and sleeves of shaped parts to look like continuous knitting; avoids appearance of seams; more expensive and slower
warp knitting
-Fast method
-Requires very regular yarns
-More stable (like wovens)
-Flexible (like filling knits)
-Less resilient & lighter weight compared to filling knits
-Stable in both directions
tricot
often filament yarns in finer gauge;
lock stitch or lock knit does not run, but may "zip" along a wale;
outwear, underwear;
tulle
raschel
often spun yarns , coarser gauge, elaborate or complex pattern;
lace, furnishings, industrial uses, & outerwear
insertion warp knits
narrow knitted fabrics
either filling or warp knit;
elastics, trims, hook-loop fasteners
fabrics from solutions- film
-Solution extruded through slit or cast on hot drum
-Hot and clammy unless porous
-Uniform in appearance & quality
-May be embossed to resemble leather
-Water & air impermeable
-Soil resistant
-Weak and stiff
-Vinyl films stiffen with dry cleaning & cold
foams
-Airy, springy, & lightweight
-Weak depending on type & weight/thickness
-Lofty; stiff; warm
-Padding for upholstery, mattresses, & carpeting
felt
fibers interlocked;
no grain, does not fray or ravel;
stiff; weak;
craft & technical uses
modern nonwovens
Textile sheet structures made from fibrous webs bonded through use of resins, thermal fusion, or mechanical means
fiberfill
batting, wadding, & fiberfill
-Characteristics: resilient, lightweight, resist shifting
netlike structures
-Extrude one or more fiber-forming polymers as a film
-Nets Packaging - Fruits and Vegetables
braids
-Yarns interlaced lengthwise & diagonally; flat or 3-D
-Good elongation, pliable, curve around edges
-Apparel trim, interiors, & technical goods
lace
Intermeshed yarns with open space between/around solid areas
-Woven, knit, crocheted, netted, bobbin, etc.
-Classified by technique & appearance
-Hand or machine process
Openwork fabric produced by a network of threads, twisted together and sometimes to k
composite fabrics
fabrics that combine several structures into a single structure
-Advantages: interesting texture; light weight & warm; more body; less wrinkling; quick to produce; stable if well done
-Disadvantages: may separate, off-grain; differential shrinkage; sags;
coated fabric
Combine characteristics of film with textile fabric
Film attached by:
-Lamination (film adhered to fabric by melting)
-Calendaring (film hot calendered onto fabric)
-Coating (fluid hot film applied by knife or roll)
-Other methods
poromeric fabrics
-Very fine, microporous polymer on surface
-Water vapor permeable; waterproof; windproof, breathable
flocked fabric
Add surface fiber with adhesive for all-over pile effect
-Mechanical process
-Electrostatic process
tufted fabric
Yarn stitched onto fabric to create pile-like look. Usually back-coated to lock yarns in place
-Upholstery: imitation velvet types
-Carpet: most common type on market; gauge, face weight, and grin-through (related to tuft density)
laminated
Also known as bonded
-Adhere one or two fabric layers (similar processes as for coating methods)
-Lightweight
-Potential problems: off-grain, differential shrinkage, delaminate, glue bleed, stiff
stitch bonded
-Also known as knit-through
-Warp knitting machines use needles to interlace fibers or yarns to lock in-laid yarns in place
quilted
2 layers of fabric combined;
bulky, warm, decorative
luster
Change light reflectance
-Glazed: friction calender produces high surface glazed as one cylinder rotates faster
-Cir�: similar to glazed, hot calender glazes surface; adds more luster
-Plasticize: thin polymer layer; higher glaze
-Moir�: water-marked desi
drape
Finish modifies drape of fabric
-Crisp & transparent: parchmentize: treat cellulose with acid
-Burned-out (deglaze): print chemical on fabric that dissolves one fiber
-Sizing: temporarily adds body and weight
-Weighting: metallic salt added for stiffness
texture
Finish alters texture and hand of fabric (can feel effect of finish)
-Embossed: produces raised or three-dimensional design (embossed cotton)
-Pleated: variation of embossed
-Puckered surface: chemical printed on nylon or polyester shrinks fabric
-Pliss�:
finish
Anything done to fiber, yarn, or fabric either before or after fabrication to change the appearance, hand, & performance of the fabric
finish life
Permanent: for life of product
Durable: for life of product, diminishes with time
Temporary: until conclusion of first cleaning cycle
Renewable: can be replaced
Gray, grey, or greige goods
fabrics after fabrication, but before finishing
Loom state
yarn dyed fabrics after fabrication, but before finishing
Converted or finished goods
after finishing
Mill-finished goods
finished by mill
tentering
straightens and dries fabric;
held between pins or clips, heated in oven;
impact on fabric grain