Acid wash
A washing treatment of denim using pumice stones soaked in various chemicals to create a mottled and uneven appearance.
Acceptable quality level
The limit of defective garments in a random sample below which the entire lot is accepted and above which the entire lot is rejected.
Backing button
Flat, eyed button sewn on under the fabric behind a button, to reinforce the button.
Balance
As an element of fit, this refers to the garment being in equilibrium from side to side and from front to back.
Balanced tension
Equal tension on needle, bobbing, and/or looper threads.
Bar tacks
Tightly placed stitches used to reinforce stress points on jeans.
Bias
Any direction that is not the lengthwise or crosswise grain of a woven fabric.
Bias facing
Narrow, bias strips of fabric used to face raw edges.
Bundling
During production, the process of tying cut pieces of a style together in preparation for sewing. This is usually done in multiples: For example, all the parts for 6 or 12 garments may be bundled together.
Calendaring
A finishing process for fabric that improves the hand (feel), creating a softer, smoother fabric that accepts more saturated colors.
Cut, make, and trim (CMT)
A method of contract sewing that includes the cost to cut, sew, and finish a garment, including the cost of trim. Design, patterns, and fabrics are provided by the contracting company.
Clean finish
Edge treatment made by folding under the raw edge once and stitching it in place; essentially, a narrow hem on the edge; also called turned and stitched.
Collar stay
Thin, plastic strip inserted in collar to make it stay flat and to prevent the collar points from curling.
Corespun thread
Thread that consists of a spun core of polyester or nylon wrapped with cotton or other fibers.
Dimensional stability
Ability to maintain original shape and size.
Dye lot
Fabrics from same dye bath, producing color consistency.
Enclosed seam
A seam where the operator sews the fabric plies face sides together
Enzyme washing
A process used to create stonewashed jeans. Enzymes destroy part of the denim, leaving the white core of the denim yarn. This process is often combined with pumice-stone washing.
Frog
Highly decorative button-and-loop closure made of elaborately coiled cord or braid
Functional performance
Performance features other than appearance, namely, the garment's utility and durability
Fused buttonhole
Buttonhole formed by embossing the fabric with a hot die which is patterned to resemble a stitched or bound buttonhole; a slit in the fabric serves as the buttonhole.
Gore
Vertical division within a garment, usually tapered panels seamed together to add shape to a garment.
Grain
As an element of fit, refers to need for lengthwise yarns to run parallel to length of body at center front and center back, down the center of the arm from shoulder to elbow, and down the center front of each pant leg; the crosswise yarns should run perp
Greige goods
Undyed, unfinished fabrics
Grommet
Large, metal-edged hole in a garment
Gusset
Piece of fabric set into a seam or seam intersection to add shape and fullness to a garment.
Garment dye
A dyeing process that creates intense color due to saturation of the fabric. The process is completed in the garment form rather than on the bolt.
Grade
The difference in measurements between sizes
Grade rules
The formula for making patterns for every size, based on a sample size pattern.
Grading
The process of grading patterns for all of the sizes of a style, based on a sample size pattern and predetermined variances between measurements of each size.
Hand
Broad tern for the tactile sensations resulting from touching, moving, or squeezing the fabric with the human hand.
Hand sanding
A process that creates a wear pattern that normally occurs naturally through long-term use.
Heat set
Process in which fabric is heated and then cooled in desired shape to maintain dimensional stability.
Lab dip
The first approval sample of a color mix. Fabric of the type to be used in the finished garment will be "dipped" into the dye mixture and sent to the buyer/product developer for approval or change.
Lignes
Used to measure button size; 40 lignes are equal to a diameter of one inch.
Line
Series of related designs: as an element of fit, it refers to the alignment of structural lines of the garment with the natural lines of the body.
Marker
A paper pattern that has been created, either manually or by machine, from the pattern pieces for each style. This paper pattern is then laid down on the stacked fabric to provide a template for cutting the pieces for the garment.
Mercerization
A process used on fabrics or yarns to encourage them to take dye more easily and to have a more lustrous appearance. Mercerized denim lays flat and has a smooth hand.
Monofilament thread
Clear thread resembling a fishing line and made of a single filament of nylon.
Nap-one-way (NOW)
Fabric spread with each ply of fabric facing up.
Needle cutting
Damage that occurs when the needle cuts, or severs, the yarns of the fabric rather than slipping between the yarns.
Permanent press
Chemical finish that helps garments maintain their shape and pressed appearance after many washings and wearings; also called durable press.
Pink
To cut an edge with a serrated blade or scissors; pinking retards raveling.
Preshrunk
A process that pretreats the fabric or garment so that it will shrink less than 3 percent in the laundering process.
Print repeats
The horizontal and vertical points at which a continuous print, when applied to cloth, will start to repeat itself.
Prototype
The first sample of a new style. It is made to give the buyer/product developer the opportunity to see how the style will look and fit when made up into the same or similar fabric.
Pumice stones
Volcanic stones used in the stonewashing process to create a certain color or texture on denim.
Quality assurance
The process of monitoring and controlling the quality standards that are set for the product; the establishment of a set of rules and guidelines that clearly define expectations and set limits for allowable defects.
Quality control
A system for verifying and maintaining a desired level of quality in a product or process by careful planning, use of proper equipment, continued inspection, and corrective action.
Registered number (RN)
number registered with the federal government that identifies a specific manufacturer.
Rise
Measurement from crotch level to the top of the waistband; also called crotch depth.
Roll line
Area where the collar and lapel naturally tend to roll.
Sandblasting
A process that sprays sand or chemicals to create a worn look on denim.
Seam crack
Damage that occurs when stitches break and the seam splits apart; also called seam burst.
Seam grin
Unsightly result that occurs when the seam line spreads open, exposing the stitches so that they appear similar to the teeth of a grin.
Seam pucker
Lack of seam smoothness that detracts from the appearance of the garment.
Seam slippage
Damage that occurs when the fabric pulls away from the stitches at the seam line.
Shade lot
Fabrics grouped together for color consistency.
Shirring
Permanent, parallel rows of gathers made in the body of the garment.
Slopers
A set of patterns that account for each basic garment type that a particular company produces.
Slub
A soft nub in fabric that is either an imperfection or intended to give a denim texture. If intentional, it I regular in size and repetition.
Stay
Any stable, narrow, non-bulky tape, ribbon, fabric strip, or other device used to stabilize a seam.
Stitched in the ditch
Straight stitches placed in the crevice between the garment and a binding or band; also called crack stitched.
Stitches per inch (SPI)
Measurement of stitch length.
Stonewash
A finishing technique used to produce fabrics with a certain color or texture. Stones are used as an abrasive in the tumbling process.
Strike-off
The first printing (usually done with a hand-screen printing process) of a new pattern on cloth. The purpose is to give the buyer/product developer a first view to either approve or change.
Strapped seam
Seam with stay sewn over the completed seam on the outside of the garment.
Stripped seam
Seam with stay sewn over the completed seam inside the garment.
Taped seam
Seam with stay tape superimposed on the fabric plies and sewn in as part of the seam.
Tex
System used to designate fiber or yarn size; the larger the number, the larger the fiber or yarn.
Tolerance
The difference between the allowable minimum and maximum of a specification.
True bias
Fabric direction that occurs at a 45-degree angle to the lengthwise and crosswise grain of woven fabrics; has the highest degree of stretch of any fabric direction.
Under collar
Facing of the collar.
Vanity sized
Expensive lines cut large to appeal to consumers who desire to think of themselves.
Warp
The lengthwise yarns that are woven over and under the weft, or horizontal yarns. Warp yarns tend to be stronger and twisted because they are subjected to more stress in the manufacturing process.
Weft
The horizontal. Crosswise yarns that act as filling to the warp.
Weights
Small, thin pieces of metal encased in fabric or chains tacked in place to perfect the drape of the garment.
Wicking ability
Rate at which a fabric diffuses moisture.