acid-balanced waves
Permanent waves that have 7.0 or neutral pH; because of their higher pH, the process at room temperature, do not require the added heat of a hair dryer, process more quickly, and produce firmer curls than true acid waves.
alkaline waves
Also known as cold waves; they have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent, and process at room temperature without the addition of heat.
amino acids
Compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen , nitrogen, and sulfur.
ammonia-free waves
Perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so there is a very little odor is associated with their use.
ammonium thioglycolate (ATG)
Active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents.
base control
Position of the tool in relation to its base section, determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.
base cream
Also known as protective base cream; oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing.
base direction
Angle at which the rod is positioned on the head (horizontally vertically or diagonally); also, the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped.
base placement
Refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section; base placement is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.
base relaxers
Relaxers that require the application of protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer.
base sections
Subsections of panels into which the hair is divided for perm wrapping; one rod is normally placed on each base section.
basic permanent wrap
Also known as straight set wrap; perm wrapping in which all the rods within panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-sized bases; all the base sections are horizontal, and are the same length and width as the perm rod.
M: straight back
bookend wrap
Perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope.
M: fold end paper over hair
bricklay permanent wrap
Perm wrap similar to actual technique by bricklaying; base sections are offset from each other row by row, to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair.
M: brick wall
chemical hair relaxing
A process or service that rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form.
M: from curly hair to straight hair.
chemical texture services
Hair service that cause a chemical change that alters the natural wave pattern of the hair
M: from current hair texture to new texture
concave rods
Perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends.
croquignole perm wrap
Perms in which the hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers.
M: from tip of shaft to end of shaft wraped
curvature permanent wrap
Perm wraps in which partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head.
disulfide bonds
Strong chemical side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together.
double flat wrap
Perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the strand of hair being wrapped.
M: 2 end papers
double-rod wrap
Also known as piggyback wrap; a wrap technique whereby extra-long hair is wrapped on one rod from the scalp midway down the hair shaft, and another rod is used to wrap the remaining hair strand in the same direction.
M: Piggyback perm
end papers
Also known as end wraps; absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm rods.
M: papers used to control ends of hair when perming.
endothermic waves
Perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type hair dryer.
M: not a heat reactant perm solution
exothermic waves
Create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up the processing.
M: heat reactant perm solution
glyceryl monothioglycolate
Main active ingredient in true acid-balanced waving lotions.
half off-base placement
Base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees or perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned half off its base section.
M: rod is not fully on base
hydrogen bonds
Weak physical side bonds that are also the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; they are easily broken by water (wet setting) or heat (thermal styling), and they re-form as the hair dries or cools.
hydroxide neutralization
An acid-alkali neutralization reaction that neutralizes (deactivates) the alkaline residues left in the hair by a hydroxide relaxer and lowers the pH of the hair and scalp; hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not involve oxidation or rebuild disulfide b
hydroxide relaxers
Very strong alkalis with a pH over 13; the hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers.
keratin proteins
Long, coiled polypeptide chains.
lanthionization
Process by which hydrogen relaxers permanently straighten hair; they remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond and convert it into a lanthionine bond.
M: hair relaxed permanently
loop rod
Also known as circle rod; tool that is usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod.
M: perm rods
low-pH waves
Perms that use sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites as an alternative to ammonium thioglycolate.
M: creates loose permed waves
metal hydroxide relaxers
Ionic compounds formed by a metal (sodium, potassium, or lithium) which is combined with oxygen and hydrogen.
M: reacts to a metal
no-base relaxers
Relaxers that do not require application of a protective base cream.
normalizing lotions
Conditioners with an acidic pH that restore the hair's natural pH before the final neutralizing shampooing.
M: restores pH to the hair
off-base placement
Base control in which the hair is wrapped at 45-degrees below the center of the base section, so the rod is positioned completely off its base.
on-base placement
Base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45-degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned on its base.
peptide bonds
Also known as end bonds; chemical bonds that join amino acids together, end-to-end in long chains, to form polypeptide chains.
permanent waving
A two-step process whereby the hair undergoes a physical change caused by wrapping the hair on perm rods; the hair undergoes a chemical change caused by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer.
polypeptide chains
Long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds.
side bonds
Disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains together.
single flat wrap
Perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped.
soft bender rods
Tool about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length.
M: rods that require no elastic
soft curl permanent
A thio based chemical service that reformats curly and wavy hair into looser and larger curls and waves.
M: changes the texture of the hair
spiral perm wrap
Hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod, similar to the stripes on a candy canes.
M: instead of a S wave it gives you a spiral curl
straight rods
Perm rods that are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area.
M: not convex
thioglycolic acid
The most common reducing agent in permanent wave solutions.
M: also known as perm solution
thio neutralization
Stops the action of a permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair in its new curly form.
thio relaxers
Use the same ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) that is used in permanent waving, but at a higher concentration and a higher pH (above 10).
thio-free waves
Perm that uses an ingredient other than ATG as the primary reducing agent, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine.
true acid waves
Have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0 and require heat to process; they process more slowly than alkaline waves, and do not usually produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves.
viscosity
The measurement of thickness or thinness of a liquid that affects how the fluid flows.
weave technique
Wrapping technique that uses zigzag partings to divide base areas.