Acid-Balanced Waves
Permanent waves that have a 7.0 or neutral pH; because of their higher pH, they process at room temperature, do not require the added heat of a hair dryer, process more quickly, and produce firmer curls than true acid waves.
Alkaline Waves
Also known as cold waves; they have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate as the reducing agent, and process at room temperature without the addition of heat.
Amino Acids
Compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur.
Ammonia-Free Waves
Perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so there is very little odor associated with their use.
Ammonium Thioglycolate
Active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents.
Base Control
Position of the tool in relation to its base section, determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.
Base Cream
Also known as protective base cream; oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing.
Base Direction
Angle at which the rod is positioned on the head (horizontally, vertically, or diagonally); also, the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped.
Base Placement
Refers to the position of the rod to tis base section; base placement is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.
Base Relaxers
Relaxers that require the application of protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer.
Base Sections
Subsections of the panel into which hair is divided for perms wrapping; one rod is normally placed on each base section.
Basic Permanent Wrap
Also known as straight set wrap; perm wrapping pattern in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-sized bases; all the base se actions are horizontal and are the same length and width as the perm rod.
Bookend Wrap
Perm wrap in which on end paper si folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope.
Bricklay Permanent Wrap
Perm wrap similar to actual technique or bricklaying; base sections are offset from each other row by row to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair.
Chemical Hair Relaxing
A process or service that rearranges the structure of truly hair into a straighter or smoother form.
Chemical Texture Services
Hair services that cause a chemical change that alters the natural wave pattern of the hair.
Concave Rods
Perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends.
Croquignole Perm Wrap
Perm in which the hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers.
Curvature Permanent Wrap
Perm wrap in which parties and bases radiate throughout the panel to follow the curvature of the head.
Disulfide Bonds
Strong chemical side bonds formed which the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together.
Double Flat Wrap
Perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the strand of hair being wrapped.
Double Rod Wrap
Also known as piggyback wrap; a wrap technique whereby extra-long hair is wrapped on one rod from the scalp to midway down the hair shaft, and another rod is used to wrap the remaining hair strand in the same direction.
End Papers
Also known as end wraps; absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair hen wrapping and winding hair on perm rods.
Endothermic Waves
Perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a convention hood-type hair dryer.
Exothermic Waves
Create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up processing.
Glyceryl Monothioglycolate
Main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balancing wave lotions.
Half Off-Base Placement
Base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees or perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is optioned half off its base section.
Hydrogen Bonds
Weak physical side bonds that are also the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; they are easily broken by water (wet setting) or heat (thermal styling) and they reform as the hair dries or cools.
Hydroxide Neutralization
An acid-alkali neutralization reaction that neutralizes (deactivates) the alkaline residues left in the hair by a hydroxide relaxer and lowers the pH of the hair and scalp; hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not involve oxidation or rebuild disulfide b
Hydroxide Relaxers
Very strong alkalis with a pH over 13; the hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers.
Keratin Protein
Long, coiled polypeptide chains.
Lanthionization
Process y which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair; they remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond and cover it into a lanthionine bond.
Loop Rod
Ago known as circle rod; tool that is usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod.
Low-pH Waves
Perms that use sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites as an alternative to ammonium thioglycolate.
Metal Hydroxide Relaxers
Ionic compounds formed by a metal (sodium, potassium, or lithium) which is combined with oxygen and hydrogen.
No-Base Relaxers
Relaxers tha do not require application of a protective base cream.
Normalizing Lotions
Conditioners with an acidic pH that restores the hair's natural pH before the final neutralizing shampoo.
Off-Base Placement
Base control in which the hair is wrapped at 45 degrees below the base section, so the rod is positioned completely off base.
On-Base Placement
Base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45-degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned on-base.
Peptide Bonds
Also known as end bonds; chemical bonds that join amino acids together, end-to-end, in long chains to form polypeptide chains.
Permanent Waving
A two-step process whereby the hair undergoes a physical change caused by wrapping the hair on perm rods; the hair then undergoes a chemical change caused by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer.
Polypeptide Chains
Long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds.
Side Bonds
Disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains together.
Single Flat Wrap
Perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but users only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped.
Soft Bender Rods
Tool about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter the entire length.
Soft Curl Permanent
a thio-based chemical service that reforms curly and wavy hair into looser and larger curls and waves.
Spiral Perm Wrap
Hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod, which cases the hair to spiral along the length of the rod, similar to the stripes on a candy cane.
Straight Rods
Perm rods that are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area.
Thioglycolic Acid
The most common reducing agent in permanent waves solutions.
Thio Neutralization
Stops the action of a permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair in its new curly form.
Thio Relaxers
Use the same ammonium thioglycolate that is used impermanent waving, but at a higher concentration and a higher pH (above 10).
Thio-Free Waves
Perm that uses an ingredient other than AGT as the primary reducing agent, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine.
True Acid Waves
Have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0 and require heat to process; they process more slowly than alkaline waves, and they do not usually produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves.
Viscosity
The measurement of the thickness or thinness of a liquid that affects how the fluid flows.
Weave Technique
Wrapping technique that uses zigzag partings to divide base areas.