Acid-Balanced Waves
Permanent waves that have a 7.0 or neutral pH; because of their higher pH, they process at room temperature, do not require the added heat of a hair dryer, process more quickly, and produce firmer curls than true acid waves.
Alkaline Waves
Alo known as cold waves; they have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent, and process at room temperature without the addition of heat.
Amino Acids
Compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur
Ammonia-free waves
Perms that use and ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so there is very little odor associated with their use.
Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG)
Active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents
Base control
Position of the tool in relation to its base section. determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.
Base Cream
Also known as protective base cream; oily cream to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing
Base Direction
Angle at which the rod is positioned on the head (horizontally, vertically, or diagonally); also, the direction pattern in which the hair is wrapped
Base Placement
Refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section; base placement is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped
Base relaxers
Relaxers that require the application of protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer
Base sections
Subsections of panels into which hair is dived for perm wrapping; one rod is normally placed on each base section
Basic Permanent Wrap
Also known as straight se wrap; perm wrapping pattern in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-sized bases; all the base sections are horizontal and are the same length and width as the perm rod.
Bookend wrap
Perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope
Bricklay permanent wrap
Perm wrap similar to actual techniques of bricklaying; base sections are offset from each other row by row to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair
Chemical hair relaxing
A process or service that rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form.
Chemical texture services
Hair services that cause a chemical change that alters the natural wave pattern of the hair
Concave rods
Perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends.
Croquignole perm wrap
Perm in which the hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers
Curvature permanent wrap
Perm wrap in which partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head.
Disulfide bonds
Strong chemical ide bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together
Double flat wrap
Perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under another is placed over the strand of hair being wrapped
Double-rod wrap
Also known as piggyback wrap; a wrap technique whereby extra-long hair is wrapped on one rod from the scalp to midway down the hair shaft and another rod is used to wrap the remaining hair strands in the same direction
End papers
Also known as end wraps; absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm rods.
Endothermic waves
Perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type hair dryer.
Exothermic waves
Create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up processing.
Glyceryl Monothioglycolate
Main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions
Half off-base placement
Base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees or perpendicular to its base section, and he rod is positioned half off its base section.
Hydrogen bonds
Weak physical side bonds that are also the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; they are easily broken by water (wet setting) or heat (thermal styling), and they re-form as the hair dries or cools
Hydroxide Neutralization
An acid-alkali reaction that neutralizes (deactivates) the alkaline residues left in the hair by a hydroxide relaxer and lowers the pH of the hair and scalp; hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not involve oxidation or rebuild disulfide bonds
Hydroxide relaxers
Very strong alkalis with a pH over 13; the hydroxide ions is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers
Keratin Proteins
Long, coiled polypeptide chains
Ianthionzation
Process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair; they remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond and convert it into a Ianthionine bond
Loop rod
Also known as circle rod; tool that is usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod
Low-pH waves
Perms that use sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites as an alternative to ammonium thioglycolate
Metal Hydroxide relaxers
Ionic compounds formed by a metal (sodium, potassium, or lithium which is combined with oxygen and hydrogen
No-base relaxers
Relaxers that do not require application of a protective base cream
Normalizing Lotions
Conditioners with an acidic pH that restores the hair's natural pH before the final neutralizing shampoo
Off-base placement
Base control in which the hair I wrapped at 45 degrees below the center of the base section, so the rod is positioned completely off its base
On-base placement
Base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45 degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned on its base.
Peptide bonds
Also known as end bonds; chemical bonds that join amino acids together, end-to-end in long chains, to form polypeptide chains
Permanent waving
A two-step process whereby the hair undergoes a physical change caused by wrapping the hair on perm rods, the hair then undergoes a chemical change caused y the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer
Polypeptide chains
Long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds
Side bonds
Disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains together
Single flat wrap
Perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped
Soft bender rods
Tool about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length
Soft curl permanent
A thio based chemical service that reformats curly and wavy hair into looser and larger curls and waves
Spiral perm wrap
Hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod, similar to the stripes on a candy cane
Straight rods
Perm rods that are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area
Thioglycolic acid
The most common reducing agent in permanent wave solutions
Thio Neutralization
Stops the action of a permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair in its new curly form
Thio relaxers
Use the same ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) that is used in permanent waving, but at a higher concentration and a higher pH (above 10)
Thio-free waves
Perm that uses an ingredient other than ATG as the primary reducing agent, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine
True acid waves
Have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0 and require heat to process; they process more slowly than alkaline waves, and they do not usually produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves
Viscosity
The measurement of the thickness of thinness of a liquid that affects how the fluid flows
Weave Technique
Wrapping technique that uses zigzag partings to divide base areas