Chapter 7 (Salon Fundamentals Esthetics)

Chemistry

The scientific study of matter, the physical and chemical changes effecting matter.

Chemist

Scientist who study matter, its properties and changes.

Biochemistry

The study of chemical reactions, such as growth, reproduction and respiration, that occur in living organisms.

Antoine Laurent Lavoisier

This french "father of chemistry" proved that oxygen played the major role in weight differences associated with combustion.

Organic chemistry

This form of chemistry deals with all matter that is now living or was alive at one time, containing carbon.

Inorganic chemistry

This form of chemistry deals with matter that was never living and does not contain carbon.

Matter

Anything that occupies space.

Solid matter

This form of matter has definite weight, volume and shape.

Liquid matter

This form of matter has definite weight and volume, but no shape.

Gas matter

This form of matter has definite weight, but indefinite volume and shape.

Physical change

This is a change in the physical form of a substance without creating a new substance possessing a distinct material composition.

Chemical change

This is a change in a substance that create a new substance with different material characteristics from those of the original substance.

Sublimation

The process of a solid or gas changing states without becoming a liquid

Energy

The ability to do work.

Elements

The basic units of matter that cannot be broken down into simpler substances by any chemical reaction.

Atoms

The smallest complete unit of an element.

Protons

This atom has a positive electrical charge.

Neutrons

This atom has no electrical charge and are neutrally charged.

Molecular weight

Protons + neutrons=?

Electrons

This atom has a negative electrical charge.

Free electron

The name of an electron in the outermost orbit that is easily moved from its orbit.

Molecule

The smallest particle of a compound that has all the chemical properties of that compound. two or more of the same atoms joined together.

Compounds

These are created by chemically uniting two different elements. (combining an atom of hydrogen and an atom of oxygen =water compound

Oxidation

The loss of an electron.

Reduction

The gain of an electron.

Ions

The charged atoms involved in a chemical reaction.

Ionic bond

This bond holds positive and negative ions together.

Covalent bodn

This bond holds molecules that are sharing electrons together.

Chemical bonds

The bond that holds atoms together in compounds.

Proteins

The basic materials the body uses to construct and renew itself.

Enzymes

Materials that dissolve and break down large molecules into smaller ones.

Amino acids

Compounds consisting of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen and nitrogen that join together to form proteins.

Peptide bond

A bond uniting two amino acid groups.

Monomer

A simple compound whose molecules can join together to form polymers.

Polymers

A group of monomers that bond together.

Carbohydrates

These are monomers and polymers that are used by the body to store energy and play a key role in metabolism.

Saccharide

A simple unit of carbohydrate.

Monosaccharide

A single saccharide.

Disaccharide

Two saccharides linked together.

Polysaccharides

Many saccharides linked together.

Lipids

This substance is a complex combination of carbon, Hydrogen, and oxygen. Triglycerides, fats and steroids are examples.

pH

The unit of measurement that indicates whether a substance is acidic, neutral and alkaline. AKA potential hydrogen.

Acidic

A solution is considered _____________ if it has more positive hydrogen ions than negative hydroxide ions.

neutral

A solution is considered _______________ if it has an equal number of positive hydrogen and negative hydroxide ions.

Alkaline

A solution is considered ________________ if it has more negative hydroxide ions than positive hydrogen ions.

Logarithmic

The pH scale is ______________ which means each step or number increases by multiples of 10. (pH of 6 is ten times more acidic than neutral 7)

7

This number on the pH scale is considered neutral.

0-6

This range of numbers on the pH scale are considered acidic.

8-14

This range of numbers on the pH scale are considered alkaline.

4.5-5.5

The average pH of the skin.

Acid mantle

A mixture of sebum and sweat combines with lipids, minerals and moisture to form this protective barrier for the skin.

Hard water

This water may contain salts such as calcium and magnesium.

Soft water

This water contains very few minerals and is preferred for professional use.

Mixture

This is formed when two or more compounds are blended together physically, rather than chemically, creating a new overall product.

Solution

This is a mixture of two or more chemicals (compounds) in which each component in evenly distributed in the mixture to form a complete dispersion.

Solvent

The liquid part of a solution.

Solute

The dissolved substance in a solution.

Saturation point

The point at which a substance can no longer dissolve. (solute will settle at the bottom of the solution)

Suspension

The even dispersion of a solid in a liquid base. (solid particles of pigment are finely dispersed in a liquid foundation)

Gel

A product that has been formulated with a thickening agent to increase its viscosity.

Powder

A finely ground solid mixed evenly with additional ingredients, in some cases oil. May be packed loosely or pressed.

Ointment

This anhydrous substance based on a mixture of oils and waxes, normally having the texture of paste.

Stick

This is a hard, low-level water or anhydrous product applied to the skin by rubbing the product directly on the desired area.

Aerosol

This product is packed under pressure and blended with a propellant (gas) inside a container, usually a can.

Emulsion

This product is a mixture of two or more non-mixable substances, such as oil and water, united by small droplets of a binder or gum-like substance.

Emulsifiers

This is used to slow down the destruction of the product, they are compatible with water and oil.

Lotion (creme)

This is the most common product type on the market, they are emulsions used to impart emolliency (oil) and moisturization (water) to the skin.

Active ingredients

The ingredients responsible for producing the desired effect.

Water

This is usually found first on a product label.

Humectants

Organic ingredients that bind water and deposit it into the skin. (glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and sorbitol)

Emollients

These are oils and oil-soluble substances use to condition and soften the skin by providing a protective coating.

Occulsive barrier

A protective barrier caused by emollients.

Fatty acids

This substance comes from both plant and animal sources, commonly used in cremes and lotions to keep them firm yet soft, and easy to apply to skin.

Fatty alcohols

These are fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen, their properties are far from drying or antiseptic, often used to increase thickness and moisturize.

Surfactants

A large category of ingredients with surface activity, bind a wide range of organic and inorganic matter to water. Common in shampoos, cleansers...

Thickeners

These ingredients that help increase density in emulsions and gel type products, allowing small particle solids to suspend in a base.

Botanicals

Natural or naturally derived ingredients extracted from plants.

Preservatives

This ingredient maintains microbiological integrity or product quality during manufacturing, storage and use by customer.

Chelating agents

Ingredients added to a product to enhance the effectiveness of the preservative.

Coloring agents

Vegetable, mineral or pigment dyes that are added to products to enhance the products appearance.

Hypoallergenic

This means the product is less likely to provoke an allergic reaction.

Antibacterial

This ingredient destroys bacteria that can cause problems such as acne or other infections.

pH adjustors

These ingredients are acids or bases used to adjust the product pH level to a desired level.

Sunscreens (UV absorbers or blockers)

These active ingredients are considered drug products under FDA guidelines, that block or absorb UV radiation emitted by the sun.

Antioxidants

These active ingredients are used to prevent skin inflammation and damage due to free radicals.

Free radicals

Chemically unstable molecules, caused by environmental pollutants and UV exposure.

Alpha Lipoic Acid (ALA)

Acid discovered by Dr. Nicholas Perricone that claims to help aging cells increase energy production.

Co-enzyme Q-10

This active ingredient is a powerful antioxidant that occurs naturally in human cells, primary role is to aid in the production of cellular energy.

Silicones

These active ingredients are derived from a silicone base that are free of contaminants and are environmentally friendly.

Hydroxy acids

These are natural acids extracted from a variety of natural sources, including fruits, sugar and milk.

Alpha hydroxy acid

This acid has a carboxyl group located on the first carbon atom of the organic acid chain (EX: glycolic and lactic acid)

Beta hydroxy acid

This acid has a carboxyl group that is located on the second carbon atom of the chain (EX: salicylic acid)

Poly hydroxy acid

This acid contains several carboxyl groups in the same chain (EX: malic acid)

Enzymes

These ingredients are designed to dissolve keratin proteins on the surface of the skin, resulting in exfoliation and softer, smoother skin.

Kinetin

This ingredient is an essential growth factor that prevents premature aging and is believed to partially reverse clinical signs of photo-damaged skin.

Lighteners

These ingredients are used to bleach or lighten areas of hyperpigmentation.

Cosmetics

Articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on or introduced into, or otherwise applied to human body.

Drugs

Products intended to treat symptoms or cure medical conditions, including altering the function and/or structure parts of the human body.