History of Western Costume Unit 1 Terms

amulets

charms worn around the neck to ward off evil

chemise

a woman's undergarment (or a derivative dress style in the 18th century) that hung loosely from the shoulder

chignon

hairstyle whereby the hair is fashion bun-like at the back of the head

cuirass

a bodice or armor covering the torso, usually sleeveless

cuneiform

early Sumerian form of writing

diadem

a circular headdress or crown

fibula

a pin used for fastening garments together

filet

a headband usually tied around the brow

girdle

a wide belt or sash worn around the waist or hips

goffering

fine, evenly pressed pleating

kaunakes

a Sumerian wrap garment originally made of shaggy sheep or goat pelts; also originally a Greek origin later applied to the form of woven fabric wrap garment with fringe or petal appliques of raw wool

kohl

a type of eye makeup made of galena (a sulfite of lead) that was used to put black or grey lines or marks around the eyes

linen

fabric woven from the fibers of the flax plant

loincloth

under or outer garments shaped and worn like triangular diapers. Strings were attached for trying the garment around the waist, although sometimes a separate girdle or sash was also wrapped around the waist.

tunic

a loose fitting garment forded or cut with holes for the arms and neck; lengths vary and included

schenti

a kilt-like skirt of linen, mostly worn by men, but also by women of working classes

selvage

the edge on either side of a woven fabric so finished as to prevent raveling; a narrow border often of different or heavier threads that the fabric and/or sometimes a different weave

sheath

as worn by Egyptian women, a close-fitting tube of fabric beginning above or below the breasts and ending around the lower calf or ankle, sometimes appears to have two straps holding it over the shoulders

uraeus

the sacred serpent symbolizing the king's divinity used on headdresses and royal ornaments.

warp

the threads that run up and down on a loom or in a woven fabric

weft

the threads that run side to side on a loom or in a woven fabric

apoptygma

the defining feature of the peplos, a bib-like flap created by folding the fabric before wrapping the body

chlamys

short masculine cloak secured with a single brooch

chiton

a loose-fitting, tubular garment of varying lengths, usually pinned at the shoulder and girdled at the waist; worn by both men and women

Doric chiton

a basic tunic made by draping a narrow piece of fabric about the
body and fastening at the shoulders with fibulae

Ionic chiton

a wide, voluminous tunic girdled at the waist and fastened at the
shoulders with several small pins that formed sleeves of varying lengths; worn by
both men and women

clavus

purple stripes added to the border of a Roman toga denoting special status

codpiece

a pouch covering for men's genitals

flammeum

a Roman woman's scarf worn to veil the hair

himation

a huge rectangle of fabric swathed around the body without any fastening or binding

mamillare

a type of brassiere made from a narrow strip of fabric wrapped around a woman's torso

ornatrix

a Roman hairdresser

palla

a square, rectangular or round-edged oblong of material worn by women as an outerwear wrap

peplos

a feminine garment formed by girding a wide cylinder of fabric with a section at the top turned down to form a bib-like top

peplum

- a short skirt-like drapery formed by the deep blousing of fabric over the belt of the peplos; in modern use it is a short skirt attached at the waist of variously constructed modern garments

perizoma

men's loincloth

ricinium

a head covering of dark cloth worn by widows during mourning

stays

the internal structures that give shape and control to corsets or girdles

sinus

the swag of fabric created by draping the toga across the front of the thighs

stola

an outer garment similar to a slip that was worn by Roman women over an under tunic

strophium

long-line brassier that covered the breast and upper ribcage by encircling the torso with a long strip of material

subligaculum

linen or wool loincloth worn by both Roman men and women during exercise or sport and by the upper classes as an undergarment

tebenna

a rounded mantle worn by both men and women

toga

primary outer garment of male Roman citizens that was arranged according to a strict protocol of drapery

tutulus

a special hairstyle worn by the wives of pater familias. Created by drawing the hair on top of the head and wrapping it to give the effect of the conical shape that was also worn by Etruscan women of the same time

umbo

the swag of fabric at the front waistline of the toga sometimes used as a pouch

barbette

a linen chin strap used to secure a woman's cap and veil arrangement

bourrelet

initially a light, wicker hoop over which men rolled their capuchin; later a men's or women's hat with a large circular or ovoid roll of material that fit around the crown

braies

the Frankish style of trousers cut in varying lengths from the knees to the ankles; most often made of wool or linen

chainse

a woman's form-fitting, long-sleeved outer tunic made with an excessively long train, worn by women of affluent classes as a housedress of the late 12th century

chemise

another term to under tunic, worn by both men and women, usually cotton or linen; in the 18th century also a term for a style of dress; Italians called this the camicia

cloisonn�

decorative metalwork created by soldering metal strips edge up to metal base; the resulting compartments were filled with jewels, glass or enamel

cote

a snug-fitting under tunic with a full shirt cut in a single piece with the top; it replaced the bliaut in the 13th century

couvrechief

a woman's long head covering made of silk or sheer linen

doublet

a men's tight-fitting jacket

gaiters

wrapped covering for the leg between the knee and instep

gauntlet

the articulate metal mitten of a plated suit of armor in the 14th and 15th centuries

gown

a woman's long-sleeve tunic of the 14th century cut to be form-fitting through the shoulders and torso with a full, floor-length skirt

horned veil

a woman's headdress shaped by a wire or whalebone frame over which veils were arranged in the 14th and 15th centuries

houppleande

a formal outer tunic of the affluent classes; men's styles were fitted through the shoulders and flared below to a fullness that was gathered into deep folds or pleats in the front and back; women's versions were similar in design except for the excessive

knit

a fabric production technique of intertwining yarn or thread in a series of connected loops with knitting needles

jacket

a men's short top garment made with a separate bodice and shirt in the 14th and 15th centuries

mantel

open-front cape fastened in the front with an adjustable cord

particolored

juxtaposition of contrasting pieces of material in the construction of garments

pedules

hose made of circular woven linen or wool usually worn to the knees but sometimes extended to the lower thighs

peli�on

any of a variety of fur-lined garments ranging from under tunics to outer cloaks

points

ties used to attached one garment to another; Italians called these agetti

poulaines

shoes with exaggerated points at the toes that extended forward several inches; late fourteenth century through mid-fifteenth, also known by the English term crackow

pourpoint

a men's short, tight fitting jacket cut and shaped to fit the body; 14th century

scarlet

a fine woven woolen fabric with the surface brushed and fulled to give the appearance of felt; a luxury item

surcote

an outer tunic usually sleeveless, worn by both men and women over a cote of contrasting color in the 13th and 14th centuries

terrycloth

a fabric woven with a surface treatment of loosely looped threads

tippets

a long streamer of fabric that hung from the back or short of half sleeves on a variety of garments

wimple

a scarf attached to a headcovering worn by women to cover the neck