Chemistry
Scientific study of matter, the physical and chemical changes affecting matter and the energy changes that accompany those processes
Chemists
Scientists who study matter, its properties and changes
Biochemistry
The study of chemical reactions, such as growth, reproduction and respiration, that occur within a living organism
Organic chemistry
Deals with all matter that is now living or was alive at one time
Study of matter containing carbon
Inorganic chemistry
Deals with matter that was never living and does not contain carbon
Matter
Anything that occupies space
Solid
definite weight, volume, shape
Ex: rock
Liquid
Definite weight and volume, no shape
Ex: water
Gas
Definite weight, indefinite volume and shape
Ex: air
Physical change
a change in the physical form or properties of a substance that occurs without a change in composition
Ex: when water freezes and becomes ice
Chemical change
Change in substance that creates a new substance with different material characteristics from those of the original substance
Ex: when hydrogen and oxygen combine to create water
Sublimation
Solid passing into gaseous state without melting
Energy
Ability to do work or accomplish some change
Elements
Basic units of matter that cannot be broken down into simpler substances by any chemical reaction
Pure substances
Naturally occurring elements in nature
92
Periodic law
Used to organize elements and their similarities
Who came up with the periodic table
Dmitri Mendeleev, Lothar Meyer
Atomic number
Number shown in the table with each element
Indicates how many protons
Elements of interest for estheticians
Carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, sulfur
Atoms
Smallest complete unit of an element
Protons
Positively charged particles
Neutrons
No/neutral charge
Electrons
Negatively charged particles
Enable atoms to unite with other atoms to form bonds
molecular weight (MW)
Neutrons and protons together
Nucleus
Protons and neutrons tightly packed to form dense core at the center of an atom
Energy level
Electrons move around the nucleus at speed of light on orbiting paths
Reactivity of an atom depends on
Number of electrons present in the outermost shell
Free electron
The name given to an electron in the outermost orbit that is easily moved from its orbit. If another atom has a shortage of electrons, the free electron will attempt to move to it
Unstable atoms are
reactive
atoms not missing electrons are
stable
Molecules
When unstable atoms combine chemically by sharing electrons
Compounds
Created chemically by combining 2 elements
Chemical reaction
Reactions that occur on the outer shell of atoms
2 or more chemicals mixed together
Oxidation
Loses electron, oxygen required
Reduction
Gains electron, oxygen released
Ions
Charged atoms involved in chemical reaction
ionic bond
When positive and negative ions join
Covalent bond
If no trading is taking place and atoms are sharing electrons
Chemical bonds
forces that hold atoms together in compounds
3 major biochemical compound groups:
proteins, carbohydrates, lipids
Proteins
Help body construct and renew itself
Enzymes
Dissolve and break down large molecules into smaller ones
Amino acid
Compounds consisting of carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen
Join to form peptide bond, polypeptide chain
Peptide bond
Bond uniting two amino acid groups
Polypeptide chain
Thousands of amino acids connected lengthwise to form a chain
Monomers
Basic building-block molecules that connect with each other to form larger, more complex compounds
Polymers
Groups of monomers that bond together
Carbohydrates
Store energy and play key role in metabolism
saccharide
A simple unit of a carbohydrate
Monosaccharide
Single saccharide, simple sugar
Ex: glucose
Disaccharide
2 saccharides together
Ex: sucrose
Polysaccharide
Many saccharides
Ex: starch
Lipids
Fill intercellular spaces in skin
Carbo, hydrogen, oxygen
pH (potential hydrogen)
Unit of measurement that indicates whether a substance is acidic, neutral or alkaline
Acid
More positive hydrogen ions than negative ions
Alkaline
More negative hydroxide ions
Base
Numbers below 7 on the pH scale
Acid
numbers above 7 on the pH scale
Alkaline
pH balanced
Balanced but not within range of 4.5-5.5
Acid balanced
Balanced within the acid range of 4.5-5.5
Pure distilled water has a pH of:
7
Hard water contains
calcium and magnesium
Soft water contains
Very few minerals
Mixture
2 or more substances physically combined rather than chemically
Solution
Mixture of 2+ chemicals in which each component is evenly dispersed in the mixture to form a complete homogenous dispersion
Solvent
Liquid part of solution
Solute
Solid or dissolved part of solution
Universal solvent
water
Miscible solvent
Solvents that easily mix together
Immiscible solvent
Solvents that don't mix easily with each other
Ex: oil, water
Suspension
Even dispersion of a solid substance in a liquid base
Ex: foundation
Gel
Formulated with a thickening agent to increase viscosity
Powder
finely ground solid mixed evenly with additional ingredients
Ointment
Anhydrous (without water) substance based on a mixture of oils and waxes normally having the texture of a paste
Stick
A hard, low-level water or anhydrous product applied to the skin by rubbing the product directly on the desired area
Ex: deodorant, lip balm
Aerosol
A product packaged under pressure and blended with a propellant (gas) inside a container, which is usually a can
Ex: hairspray
Emulsion
Mixture of 2+ nonmixable substances, United by small droplets of a binder (emulsifier)
Emulsifier
Binding substances used to slow down the destruction of the product
Viscosity
Thickness of a product
Creme and lotion
Emulsions used to impart emolliency and moisturization to the skin
Ex: sunscreen, lotion
Active ingredients
Responsible for producing the desired effect
International nomenclature for cosmetic ingredients INCI
Labeling is assigned using this
Most products are at least half
Water
Humectants
Organic ingredients that bind water and deposit it onto the skin
Normally found after water on ingredient list
Emollient
Condition and soften skin by providing protective lipid coating
Occlusive barrier
Created by Emollients and seal in moisture
Ex: wax
Fatty acids
lubricant ingredients derived from plant oils or animal fats
Used in cosmetic products to keep firm yet soft and easy to apply
Fatty alcohols
Fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen
used to increase the thickness of cosmetic products and provide moisturizing properties
Surfactant
Used in cleanser type products
Ability to bind wide variety of organic and inorganic matter to water
Thickeners/Viscosity Modifier
ingredients that increase density in emulsions and gel-type products
Botanicals
natural or naturally derived ingredients extracted from plants
Provide various anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, anti-irritant, antioxidant or conditioning effects
Preservatives
maintain microbiological integrity or product quality
chelating agents
Ingredients added to a product to enhance the effectiveness of the preservative
Coloring agents
Vegetable, mineral or pigment dyes that are added to products to enhance the products appearance
Not used often� cause allergic reactions
Fragrance
Not listed in ingredients label
Cover undesirable odors
Hypoallergenic
less likely to cause allergies
Antibacterial
Destroy bacteria that can cause problems such as acne or other infections
Ex: benzoyl peroxide
pH adjusters
Acids or bases used to adjust the product pH level to a desired level
Comedogenicity
Tendency to clog
Comedogenic
Ingredient likely to block or clog pores and contribute to pimples
Noncomedogenic
Ingredients that will not clog pores or cause comedones.
Sunscreens
Active ingredients, and are considered drug products under FDA guidelines
Antioxidants
Prevent skin inflammation and damage due to free radicals
Free radicals
Chemically unstable molecules caused by environmental pollutants and UV exposure
Co-enzyme Q-10
Occurs naturally in human cells
Aids in production of cellular energy, circulation
Stimulates immune system
Provides anti aging effects
Silicones
Act as mesh like pattern of waterproof molecules over the skin allowing oxygen molecules to penetrate, but keeping water inside
Hydroxy Acids
Organic acids extracted from a variety of natural sources including fruits, sugar, and milk
Speed up natural exfoliation process
Alpha, beta, poly
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)
Carboxyl group located on the first carbon atom of the organic acid chain
Ex: glycolic, lactic acid
Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs)
Carboxyl group located on the second carbon atom of the organic acid chain
Ex: salicylic acid
Poly Hydroxy Acid (PHA)
Contain several carboxyl groups in the same chain
Ex: magic acid
Enzymes
Dissolve keratin proteins on surface of skin
Softer, smoother skin
Kinetin
an essential growth factor that prevents premature aging
Partially reverse clinical signs of photo damaged facial skin
Vitamins
Deliver variety of benefits to the skin
Lighteners
Used in skin treatment products in order to bleach or lighten areas of hyperpigmentation
Blocks production of melanin
regulation of cosmetic products
FFDCA, FPLA
Government authority responsible for regulating cosmetics
FDA