chapter 1

headland

a steep faced irregularity of the coast that extends out into the ocean

bay

coastal body of water enclosed by land on 3 sides, and open to ocean on other

estuaries

partially enclosed body of water in which salty ocean water is significantly diluted by fresh water from land runodd

wave period

time between 2 wave crests at a fixed point

wave length

horizonal difference betwen to waves

wave height

vertical distance of wave

wave base

depth at which circular orbital motion becomes neglible

breaker/ break water

any artificial structure to protect coastal region

rip currents

strong current flowing seaward

longshore currents

current in surf zone and running parralel to shore

sea stack

isolated pillarlike rocky island that is detatched from a headland by wave erosion

wave cut platforms

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beach

area seaward of coastline through the surf zone that contains materials in transport along the shore

beach face

sloping surface of a beach extending from the berm to the shoreline

berm

dry gently sloping region on the backshore of a beach at the foot of coastal cliffs or dunes

berm crest

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spits

a small point, low tongue, or narrow embarkment of land commonly consisting of sand deposited by longshore currents. one end attatched, one in water

groins

artificial structure projecting into ocean from shore

barrier islands

long narrow wave built island seperated from mainland by lagoon

lagoons

shallow stretch of seawater partly or completly seperated from open ocean by elongated narrow strip of land

jetties

structure built from shore into a body of water to protect longshore drift

tide

periodic rise and fall of ocean surface and connecting inlets resulting from gravitational connection

tidal range

differnce in height between consecutive high and low waters

spring tides

tide of maximun range occuring about every 2 weeks

neap tides

tides of minimal range

relative sea level change

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absolute sea level change

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sea walls

wall built parralel to shore