Manufactured Fiber
any fiber derived by a process of manufacture from a substance that at any point in the process is NOT A FIBER.
Generic Name
The family of manufactured fibers with a similar chemical composition. Based on fiber chemistry & approved by FTC. Used to identify each specific type of fiber.
Trade Name
Company name used to promote and market a fiber. Owner sets performance standards for products.
Two types of manufactured fibers
Regenerated- from natural material
Synthetic- from chemicals
Fiber Spinning
three general steps:
1. preparing a viscous dope (a thick solution) or a melt.
2. Forcing or extruding the dope or melt through an opening in a spinneret to form a fiber.
3. Solidifying the fiber by coagulation, evaporation, or cooling.
Filament Fibers
spun from spinnerets with 350 holes or less. grouped together and slightly twisted to form filament yarns.
Filament Tow
an untwisted rope of thousands of filament fibers. Spun from spinneret, crimped and converted into staple by cutting or breaking to the desired length.
Spinning Processes
3 basic: Wet Spinning, Dry Spinning and Melt Spinning
Others: Emulsion Spinning - combined with heat without melting.
Gel Spinning- similar to wet and dry spinning,solvent and polymer make viscous gel
Wet Spinning
Acrylic, Lyocell, Rayon, Spandex
Oldest and most complex spinning process.
-Raw material is dissolved by chemicals
-Fiber is spun into chemical bath
-Fiber solidifies when coagulated by bath.
Dry Spinning
Acetate, Acrylic, Modacrylic, Spandex (Major Method)
Direct process, no washing required, solvent required.
-Resin solids are dissolved by solvent
-Fiber is spun into warm air
-Fiber solidifies by evaporation of the solvent
Melt Spinning
Nylon, Olefin, Polyester, Saran
Least expensive, high spinning speeds, no solvent or washing required, fibers are shaped like spinneret holes.
-Resin solids are melted in autoclave
-Fiber is spun into the air
-Fiber solidifies on cooling
Parent Fiber
Fiber in it's simplest, unmodified form
Often sold as a commodity fiber by generic name only. (without benefit of a trade name)
Fiber Size
Changing the fiber size is a common modification. Simplest way is to change the size of the opening of the spinneret.
Deniers range from:
2-25
Macrofiber
denier greater than 1.0
Microfiber
denier less than1.0; most range from 0.5-0.8
Ultrafine fiber
less than 0.3 dpf.
Mixed- denier filament bundling
combines fibers of several denier sizes in one yarn
Nanofibers
fibers with cross sections measuring less than 1,000 nm. (human hair is 80,000 nm). Even smaller than micro fibers
Shin-Gosen
Japanese term that means: new synthetic fiber
Fiber Shape
changing the cross-sectional shape is the easiest way to alter a fiber's mechanical and aesthetic properties (usually done by changing the spinneret hole)
Triobal Shape
widely used in both nylon and polyester fibers. spun through a spinneret with three triangularly arranged slits.
Thick-Thin Fivers
Uneven diameter, resulting fabrics have a texture like duppioni silk or linen.
Hollow or multicellular fibers
made by adding gas-forming compounds to the spinning solution, by injecting air as the fiber is forming, or by modifying the shape of the spinneret holes.
Low Elongation Modifications
used to increase fabric strength and abrasion resistance when weaker fibers are blended with stronger fibers, as in cotton/polyester blends.
Shape Memory Fibers
a typeof smart textile, being developed to have the capacity to change shape in a predefined way when exposed to stimulus. These groups are sensitive to to heat, light, or other stimuli and are designed to conform to a specific shape when activated by the
Fiber Additives
introducing a new or modified monomer to the polymer chain so that it is a part of the polymer.... or adding a compound to the polymer solution or dope so that it is included in the fiber but not as part of the polymer chain.
When too much of the additive
Delustering
to deluster a fiber, titanium dioxide is added to the spinning solution before the fiber is extruded.
Rayon
known as "artificial silk"- cellulose based
-first man-made fiber composed of REGENERATED cellulose
-NOT a very durable fiber
-normally white
-can be any length
-low strength (lower than cotton and flax)
-light weight
-fairly low resistance to stretching
Rayon Groups
Viscose-
-Largest amount of Rayon manufactured today
-Produced in greatest quantity and diversity
-Wood pulp-major source
Cuprammonium-
-More silk like appearance and feel
-NO striations on fiber surface, so smoother than^
-Regenerated cellulose dissolved
Lyocell
Tencel lyocell- a trademark fiber
-Made by solvent spinning process (dissolving and spinning without the formation of a derivative)
-dissolved wood pulp (raw material)
-Biodegradable & Recyclable- so it's called the GREEN FIBER
-high strength
-high crysta
Acetate
a by-product of the regeneration of cellulosic material
-was also called "artificial silk"
-soft and crisp feel
-lustrous appearance; excellent appearance when draped
-clear with irregular, multi lobed shape, cross section
-high luster and color
- clear o
Triacetate
- similar to acetate
-triacetate not as weak when wet
-triacetate is less absorbent
-good wrinkle recovery, resilient and elastic recovery
-shrink resistant and wrinkle resistant
- can be permanently heat set
-resist deterioration with age
- a little stro
Bamboo
Natures most sustainable resource. Grown without pesticides or chemicals. Hypoallergenic- irritating to the skin.
Biodegradable & naturally regenerative
Soft, absorbent
Breathable- antibacterial
Seaweed
marine plant fiber produced using a process similar to that for lyocell
-seaweed is added to lyocell spinning solution in relatively low percentages
- minerals and vitamins from seaweed are absorbed through the skin
-soft, breathable, and comfortable next
SeaCell Active
Antimicrobial agent, bras, underwear, etc.
SeaCell Pure
No Antimicrobial, apparel and interior textiles
Azlon
Any regenerated proteins
Soya Fiber is sometimes referred to as vegetable cashmere b/c of its soft hand.
Soy bean source
Soft hand, great drape, comfortable - excellent absorbency
Latte & Milkofil are made from casein, the protein in milk
soft hand and ta
Both Soy and Milk fibers are:
renewable and biodegradable
Nylon
Polyamide melt spun from condensation polymer made from diamine and acid- cold drawn.
-also called polyamides in other countries
-1st SYNTHETIC fiber produced in U.S.
First real success came with use of women's stockings
was the most used synthetic fiber
Nylon 6
High crystalline
-slightly higher tenacity
- better dye affinity
-lower melting point
-slightly better elastic recovery
Nylon 66
6 carbons in each molecule of reacting chemical
-1st type of nylon commercially produced by DuPont
-Largest type of nylon produced in U.S. today
Polyester
-most widely used synthetic and regular fiber in U.S. since 1977, when it surpassed cotton
-petroleum- the raw material from which polyester is made
-polymerization-formation of polymers
-partially transparent and white
-can be any length or diameter
-rel
Olefin (polypropylene)
italy
-melt spun or fibrillated (film stretched)
-glass rods
-High strength
-lowest specific gravity of all synthetic fibers
-lightweight and able to float
-almost completely nonabsorbent
-difficult to clean
-good wicking
-low absorbency
-grease and oil s
Polyetheylene Fibers
gel spun
-if its stretched more than 10%, deformation may occur
-soft fibers
-nonabrasive
-excellent breaking resistance
-resistant to moisture, chemicals and sunlight
~backpacks, gloves, industrial applications, ropes, cables, industrial applications.
Acrylic
Derived from acrylonitirile units
- most wool like of all synthetic fiber
-1st targeted for outdoor use, then in apparel and carpets
- 2nd fiber to be produced commercially by DuPont
-When trying to