Redken Haicolor Certification 2015 ~ Scenarios challenge ~

After applying a full head of highlights, you tone a guest's hair. As you are rinsing out the toner, you notice it appears a bit darker and drabber than desired. How do you resolve this situation?

~ Apply a mild decolorizing wash at the shampoo bowl and closely monitor until the toner has sufficiently brightened. (i.e.; For 1 level of change-6 oz H2O (Distilled / De-ionized water + 3 scoops of Blonde Dimensions.) ~ Apply a Redken Extreme Chemistry Treatment with 3.5 pHix phase.

Your client is a natural level 7 and wants to be bit lighter. She wants the end result to be very natural - not too noticeable and not too much maintenance. How do you proceed?

Apply a traditional virgin application with Chromatics using the following formulas : Zone 2 - 2 oz. 8N + 20 Vol Oil-in-cream DeveloperZone 1 - 2 oz. 8N + 10 Vol Oil-in-cream Developerand process for 35 minutes, rinse, shampoo and condition.

Your client brings in a picture of level 5 hair with light blonde highlights. You currently color her hair with level 5, so you decide to simply add a full head of highlights. Although she left the salon loving her hair, 2 days later she decides she would like to go back to her solid level 5 hair. How do you proceed?

Begin by filling the highlights with Shades EQ Gloss 2 oz. 06WG + 2 oz Processing Solution. Process for 20 minutes; rinse, shampoo and condition. Then apply a glaze of Shades EQ Gloss 2 oz. 05G + 2 oz. Processing Solution. Process for 20 minutes; rinse, shampoo and condition.

Your guest has a natural level 4 hair that is completely virgin.She desires to be a natural level 6. After applying her color, you notice that she has hot-roots; her toots appear lighter and warmer than her ends. What should you use to resolve the situation?

Apply a formula of 2 oz. Shades EQ Gloss 05N + 2 Oz Processing Solution to the zone 1 area and process for 20 minutes; rinse, shampoo and condition.

Your client comes in for her very first color appointment. She has never colored her hair! She is a natural level 6, but shows you a picture of a medium brown with copper highlights. Although she's ready for this big change, she is concerned about the maintenance of this color. How do you proceed?

Begin by applying 2 oz. Shades EQ Gloss 04WG + 2 oz. Processing Solution for roots to ends. Next, balayage highlights over top of the Shades EQ application with a formula of a 2 scoops FlashLift + 1 oz. 20 volume Pro-Oxide Cream Developer. Process for 20 minutes.

Your guest brings in her daughter for her first highlights ever! She has a natural level 4 hair and would like to add some natural highlights throughout. Her mom is very concerned about the condition of her daughter's hair. How would you proceed?

Apply a highlight formula of 1 oz. Extra Lift MN(Medium Neutral) + 2 oz. 30 volume Pro-Oxide Cream Developer, ensuring to re-mix the product every 15 minutes to ensure proper lift.

Your client is a natural level 5. A year ago she box-colored her hair with a black color. About 6 months after that, she went to a different salon that attempted to remove the black from her hair that resulted in an uneven level 7. Now she has 3 inches of level 5 outgrowth, about 6 inches of uneven level 7 and ends that are still black. She would like to go back to her natural color. How do you proceed?

You decided to foil her hair using multiple formulas and a vertical placement to break up the banding.

You client has finally decided to color her hair for the first time! She would like to lighten her natural level 5 hair to a light blonde with no warmth but lots of dimension - similar to the 8N swatch from Color Fusion. How do you proceed.

Apply a formula of 2 oz. Color Fusion 8N + 2 oz. vol Pro-Oxide Cream Developer to zones 2 and 3. Once complete, apply a second formula of 2 oz. Color Fusion 8N + 2 oz. 20 volume to zone 1. Process for 35 minutes.

Explain the difference between the 3 classification s of lightener. What are the features and benefits of each category? Which Redken Lighters fall within each category?

~ Cream, oil and powder~ Cream lighteners - they are formulated to stay moist during processing in a no-drip consistency. They are popular for their versatile application techniques (applicator bottle of bowl/brush) are are used in both on and off-scalp methods. / Lift 5/15, Blonde Icing~ Oil lighteners - frequently used for on-scalp application when a mild lightening action is desired. Oil lighteners are part of a 3 component system including power activator(s) and Hydrogen Peroxide Developer. Oil lighteners have an approximate pH of 10.5. Lifting ability can be controlled through the addition of the powder activator(s). Oil lighteners easily dispense from a bottle or adhere to applicator brushes. / New Blonde Idol Blue Oil Lightening System.~ Powder Lighteners - are often selected when lighter blonde results are desired on darker hair colors. Most powder lighteners are for off-scalp techniques such as foil highlighting, although some do provide the flexibility for on-scalp applications. The pH of powder lighteners is approximately 10.5. / FlashLift, Blonde Dimension, Upto7.

Explain the effects of overlapping permanent hair color or lightener? What can be done to repairs this type of damage?

~ Overlapping permanent hair color can result hair color getting darker than the desired color. It can be fixed with a Deolorizing Washes service, otherwise known as soap-caps or bleach washes. Because color does not lift predictably, we need other tools to aid in removing unwanted pigment from previously colored hair.~ Overlapping lightener on hair can caused breaking of hair or gummy hair since the hair is overly processed and the hair and resulting of broken disulfide bonds also known as Cysteic acid damage. When a retouch service is performed, care is taken to prevent overlap. The broken hair can be repaired with CAT (Cysteic Acid Treatment).

What are the four different lines of foil placement? What visual effect will each placement produce? when or why would you choose to use one over the other?

~ Diagonal forward~ Diagonal backward~ Horizontal~ Vertical

If a toner goes too dark, what are Redken's best practices for resolving the situation? What are Redken's best practices for preventing a toner from going to dark in the first place?

To lighten the toner on client's hair :~ Apply a mild decolorizing wash at the shampoo bowl and closely monitor until the toner has sufficiently brightened. (i.e.; For 1 level of change-6 oz H2O (Distilled / De-ionized water + 3 scoops of Blonde Dimensions.) ~ Apply a Redken Extreme Chemistry Treatment with 3.5 pHix phase.Redken's best practices for preventing toner going to dark :~ Apply or mix "Clear" with the color formula to dilute the color or level density.

What are Redken's best practices for pre-filling the hair and why is it so important to pre-fill?

Pre-filling hair is necessary when you are going two or more shades darker. this will help to build color back in to the hair so that the hair accepts the final color appropriately and does not look hollow or ashy.Redken's best practices for pre-filling -~ only fill two levels at at time. i.e.; starting at level 10 and the desired level is a 5, fill first to a level 8, then to a level 6.~ Fill 1 to 1/2 shades lighter than your desired color result. i.e.; If your desired color result is a 7, then you would fill to a level 8.

Name the four types of stitches. What is the different between each stitch and when would you choose to use each? Which stitch requires the least amount of time to process?

~ Regular Stitch~ Micro Stitch~ Slice / Skip / Slice Stitch~ Slice Stitch

You have a new client that is coming to you from another salon. She colors her hair to a copper color but the ends are browning. Why is this happening. What do you do to resolve the situation?

Over time color can start to brown out on the mid shaft & ends, so you can avoid that by using just the tone part of the formula to refresh the mid shaft & ends.ie; Always select a Refresh formula for Zone 2 and 3 approximately 1 level lighter than the Zone 1 formula

What are the 3 types of Redken approved decolorizing washes? Explain the differences between each of the washes and give an example for each.

Decolorizing washes, otherwise known as soap-caps or bleach washes, are crucial tools for every corrective colors. Because color does not lift color predictably, we need the tools to aid in removing unwanted pigment from previously colored hair. Below are the three recommended mixtures for Redken Declorizing Washes.~ Respond - MildFor 1 level of change6 oz H2O (Distilled / De-ionized water) + 3 scoops of Blonde Dimensions.~ Revise - ModerateFor 2 - 3 levels of change3 oz. 20 vol Pro-Oxide Developer + 3 oz. H2O (Distilled / De-oinized water) + 3 scoops of Blonde Dimensions.~ Redo More than 3 levels of changeMix and apply lightener according to manufacturers instructions.

When applying a highlight retouch, how do you avoid over-blonding on the ends of the hair? What techniques would you use to ensure a proper retouch application?

When a highlight retouch service is performed, care is taken to prevent overlapping (applying lightener on previously highlighted hair).The techniques that can be use are :~Double Foils (Foil-on-Foil) - Ideal for retouching, or when portions of the shaft and ends need protection while highlighting.i.e.; Weave or slice the hair and secure the first foil in place. After application of the formula, take a second foil of the same size and place on top of the first foil. Fold sides inward.~ Two-Fold Wrap - An alternative method for use when applying formula only to selected portions of the hair strands.i.e.; Place foil underneath strands. Apply formula only to those areas to be highlighted or colored. (Conditioner may be applied to protect rest of strand.) Fold bottom third of the foil over the ends of the hair (or wherever hair needs protection).Fold foil up to the edge and fold sides inward.

What is the Dilution Solution? Why would you dilute a formula (give and example)? What Redken color lines is the Dilution Solution used in?

Dilution Solution means to mix "Clear" with the color formula to dilute the color or level density.Shades EQ can be diluted with Shades EQ Crystal Clear (000) or a 09 shade to lessen or soften the tonal deposit of any Shades EQ formula.i.e.; If less colour deposit is required, use Shades EQ Crystal Clear (000); for softer deposit, use a 09 shade.Shades EQ Gloss/Cream/Cover Plus, Chromatics, High Fusion, Color Gels,

Name and explain the differences between the 2 types of virgin color applications. What is virgin hair and why is it necessary to color the hair in specific zones? What application method is preferred for each of Redken's permanent color lines?

~ Modern virgin color application ~ Traditional virgin color application A virgin color application refers to a client that has o previous chemical service on their hair. Since the hair that first came our of the scalp is not fully keratized, this hair will accept color differently from the ends for the hair (Zone 2 and 3) that are hardened and fully keratinized. Furthermore, each zone will accept color differently based on the condition of the hair. Zone 1 will accept lighter and warmer than zones 2 and 3. Color Fusion ~ Modern Virgin ApplicationColor Gels ~ Traditional Virgin ApplicationChromatics - ~ Either Modern OR Tradtional Virgin Application.