peptide bonds
chemical bonds that join amino acidstogether to form polypeptide chains.
Polypeptide chains
long chains of amino acids joinedtogether by peptide bonds.
Keratin proteins
made of long chains of amino acidslinked together end-to-end like beads.
Disulfide bond
type of bond that when the sulfur atoms intwo adjacent proteins are joined together.
Expand the hair
the action of alkaline permanent wavinglotion.
Reduction
the chemical action of waving lotion breaks thedisulfide bonds through a chemical reaction.
Coarse hair
a strong resistant cuticle layer needs theadditional swelling and penetration that is provided by astronger and more highly alkaline waving solution.
Fine hair
a porous and possibly damaged cuticle layer iseasily penetrated and could be further damaged by a highlyalkaline.
Alkalinity of the perm
when chosen should correspond tothe resistance, strength, and porosity of the cuticle layer.
Ammonium thioglycolate
the main active ingredient orreducing agent in alkaline perms.
Glycerol monothioglycolate
the main active ingredientin true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions.
Acid-balanced waves
waves that process more quicklyand produce firmer curls than true acid waves.
Exothermic
type of perm is activated by heat createdchemically within the product.
Endothermic
a perm activated by an outside heat source,usually a conventional hood dryer.
Fine hair
type of hair more fragile, easier to process, andmore susceptible to damage from perm services.
Coarse hair
type of hair usually requires moreprocessing than medium or fine hair and may also be moreresistant to processing.
Amount of processing
should be determined by thestrength of the solution, not necessarily the perm'sprocessing time.
Permanent waving
most of the processing takes place assoon as the solution penetrated the hair, within the first fiveto ten minutes.
permanent wave
when properly processed should breakand rebuild approximately 50 percent of the hair's disulfidebonds.
Disulfide bonds
if too many are broken in the permingprocess, the hair will be too weak to hold a firm curl.
Underprocessed hair
further processing will make itcurlier.
Neutralization
rebuilds disulfide bonds that were brokenby the waving solution.
Not properly rinsed
the hydrogen peroxide in theneutralizer can react with waving lotion and cause the haircolor to lighten.
Perm solution
must be rinsed from the hair for at leastfive minutes before applying the neutralizer.
Manufacturers
some recommend the application of aper-neutralizing conditioner after blotting and beforeapplication of the neutralizer.
Acidic
type of liquid protein conditioner can be appliedto the hair and dried under a warm dryer for five minutes ormore prior to neutralization if hair is damaged.
Thio neutralization
rebuilds the disulfide bonds byremoving the hydrogen that was added by the permanentwaving solution.
Preliminary test curl
test that is effective fordetermining correct processing time; expected results; rodand wrap choice; how color will be affected; and if the hairwill break, dry, or frizz.
concave
type of rods have a small diameter in the centerarea and gradually increase to their largest diameter at theends.
Straight rods
are equal in diameter along their entirelength or curling area and produce a uniform curl along theentire width of the strand.
End paper/ end rods
are thin, absorbent papers used tocontrol the ends of the hair when wrapping and windinghair on the perm rods.
Double flat wrap
is a perm wrap in which one end paperis placed under and another is placed over the strand of thehair being wrapped.
Single flat wrap
uses only one end paper and is placedover the top of the strand of hair
Bookend wrap
one end paper is folded in half over thehair ends like an envelope.
Base sections
all perm wrap begin by sectioning the hairinto panels that are further divided into subsections.
Base placement
refers to the position of the rod inrelation to its base section and is determined by the angle atwhich the hair is wrapped
On-base placement
the hair is wrapped 45-degreesbeyond perpendicular to its base section, and the rod ispositioned on its base.
Half off-base placement
the hair is wrapped at an angleof 90 degrees or perpendicular to its base section, and therod is positioned half off its base section.
Off-base placement
the hair is wrapped 45-degreesbelow the center of the base section, so that the rod ispositioned completely off its base section.
Spiral wrap
is wrapped at an angle other thanperpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes the hairto spiral along the length of the rod, like the stripes on acandy cane.
Double-rod wrap
a method of wrapping a permanentwave that is suitable for very long hair.
Straight set wrap
another name is the basic perm wrap.
Curvature wrap
partings and bases radiate throughoutthe panels to follow the curvature of the head.
Bricklay wrap
wrap used to prevent noticeable splits andto blend the flow of the hair.
Weave technique wrap
uses zigzag partings to divide base areas
Partial perming
in order to make a smooth transition fromthe rolled section of the head to an unrolled section, use alarger rod for the last rod next to an unrolled section.
male clients
are looking for added texture, fullness,style, and low maintenance that only a perm can provide.
Metallic salts
leave a coating on the hair that may causeuneven curls, severe discoloration, or hair breakage.
Preliminary test curl
when performing wrap one rod ineach different area of the head, including the top, the side,and the nape.