support materials
materials that provide foundations for shape, structure, and appearance of garments
what do support materials do?
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support materials should be
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3 types of interfacing
wovenknitnon-woven (fusible or nonfusible)
when is interfacing used?
applied only to those areas where extra body and support are needed
where is interfacing used?
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problems with interfacing
Differential shrinkageStrike throughDelaminationColor change
differential shrinkage
one part shrinks while the other part does not (aka blistering)
strike through
penetration of the resin through the lining
delamination
loss of bond between interlining and shell fabric
color change
temporary or permanent discoloration caused by high temperature
lining
materials that increase aesthetics and performance by supporting and/or enclosing interior of garment
aesthetic purposes of lining
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functional purpose of lining
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types of elastic
braidedwovenswimwear (a type of non-roll)lingere (aka picot)fold overbuttonholecordclearnon-rollelastic thread
bra cups
often added to garments such as swimsuits and strapless evening gowns to provide shape and support to the bustline usually made of fiberfill or foam
chest pieces
pad used to fill out and smooth the hollow area below the shoulder near the armhole
collar stays
Small pieces of plastic sewn inside a collar to ensure that it lays flat against a man's collarbone.
boning
used in the bodice bras, corsets, or strapless dressescan be made of steel, plastic, or polyester rigilene
horsehair braid
Braid that faces and stiffens hems in wedding and formal gowns with full skirts.
chain weight
in jacket hem (typical in chanel jackets)
round weight
at draped neckline (especially cowl necklines)
shoulder pads
used in tailored jackets, coats, dresses and blousesmade of molded foam, layers of cotton or wool wadding, or polyester fiberfill