CH. 11 - HAIR REMOVAL

hair growth

hair follicle originates in the dermis where it is rooted in the derml papilla bulb and nourished by the capillaries that carry oxygen and blood to the bulb. hair follicles may contain more than 1 hair - each in various hair growths. up to 100 follicles i

hirsutism

excessive androgen production often the result of hormonal imbalance. causes dark hair to grow in areas of the body where men usually grow more hair (face, arms, legs & back) - HORMONAL.

hypertrichosis

genetically determined and can occur anywhere on the body - GENETIC.

trichology

technical name for the study of hair.

capilli

hair that grows on the scalp.

barba

thick, coarse hair that grows on the face to form the beard.

cilia

eyelash hair

supercilia

eyebrow hair

lanugo

soft, downy hair on the body at birth.

vellus

thin, soft, unpigmented hair covering the body.

terminal

thicker, pigmented hair that grows on areas of the body after puberty.

hair growth cycle

consist of 3 phases; all hair is in one of the 3 phases at any given time. complete cycle takes an average of 4-12 weeks depending on the individual.

anagen

first & longest phase. hair actively grows

catagen

during transitional & shortest phase. hair begins to destroy itself as it disconnects from the papilla.

telogen

during last stage. the hair sheds & the follicle rests and prepares to resume the anagen stage.

temorary removal methods

shaving, chemical depilatories, tweezing, waxing (soft&hard), threading, sugaring.

waxing

weakens the papilla, which can eventually inhibit the hair from returning. however, because each individual hair within the same follicle is in any one of the three stages at once, waxing only destroys the hairs in the follicle that are in the anagen phas

shaving

preformed by client at home - electric shaver, clipper or razor removes hair from the surface of the skin - often used to remove hair from large areas (legs) because none of the hair is destroyed at the root, it usually grows back, beginning with short st

chemical depliatories

painless method of hair removal that dissolves the hair at skin level. usually available in a creme, paste or powder form. main ingredient in these products is a thioglycolic acid derivative, with an alkaline pH, that chemically softens and dissolves the

hair lighteners (bleach)

chemically lighten the hair by removing the pigment making it less obvious. also can soften hair but not removed it.

tweezing

may be used to removed unwanted hair from smaller areas, such as eyebrows, chin or around the mouth. too time-consuming and painful to use this method on larger areas of the body. always remove in the direction of the hair growth, effectively extracting i

type of wax used depends on these factors

area to be waxed, client's needs and hair type, client's contraindications, client's skin sensitivity, client's budget, personal preference.

soft wax

majority professional waxing services are preformed with this ''classic'' wax because hair removal over large areas can be accomplished quickly and easily with this type of wax. melted in a heated wax pot, applied to the skin in a thin layer with a spatul

hard wax

wax is usually ideal for small areas and thinner, more sensitive skin. is warmed in a heated wax pot, applied with a spatula in a thick layer to the skin, allowed to harden and then lifted with the fingers at one end and removed. should be removed in the

hair removal

requires 1/4 of an inch for removal.

threading

an ancient method of hair removal that is used widely in the Middle East. used to shape eyebrows and remove hair from the upper lip and other facial areas. technique utilizes 100% cotton thread that is twisted & rolled along the surface of the skin, entwi

sugaring

hair removal technique that originated in Egypt. past made primarily of sugar is applied to the surface of the skin in a rolling motion. can be used on all areas of the body including eyebrows, upper lip, underarms, legs, arms, stomach, and the bikini lin

permanent hair removal methods

electrolysis (galvanic/multi-needle - thermolysis/high frequency - blend), laser hair removal(photo epilation or pulsed light) -- hair removal techniques are designed to damage the papilla of the hair, inhibiting the hair's ability to grow back - several

electrologist

person specializing in electrolysis & typically works on one small area at a time.

electrolysis

uses needle to kill the papilla

galvanic/multi-needle

12-14 needles used at a single time. uses galvanic current to kill the papilla. typically on for 30 seconds to 2.5 minutes for each set of needles. long process with several visits needed.

thermolysis/high frequency

short wave method. single needle used. last less than 1 second. coagulates the cells so nothing grows back (melts it). reduced client discomfort.

blend

uses both galvanic and high frequency short wave current. best for resistent hair or excessive hair growth.

laser hair removal

removal treatments that use wavelengths of light to penetrate and diminish/destroy hair bulbs. emit a beam of light that passes through the skin to the hair follicle. works best on hair in the anagen stage.

laser

light - amplification (by) - simulated - emission (of) - radiation.

photo epilation/pulsed light

carry risk of scarring but much less chance of burning or scarring when pulse light is used since targeted at skin in quick short intervals. laser and pulse light are a form of light beam. laser is a constant beam of light, pulsed is not constant. benefit

before waxing considerations

cease shaving or tweezing area to be waxed at least 2-4 weeks prior to service. avoid exfoliating at least 48 hours prior to the waxing service to avoid skin sensitivity. avoid excessive sun exposure at least 48 hours prior to the waxing service. advise c

during waxing considerations

air, heat, and humidity all affect the temperature of wax. keep the temperature of your room between 70-75 degrees fahrenheit (21-24 degrees celsius) at all times. do not wax under heating or air conditioning vents or in excessively drafty areas. keep cli

after waxing considerations

avoid: applying makeup, other than loose powder, for two hours after facial waxing. applying strong fragrances or lotions over the waxed areas. using excessively hot showers, saunas or steam rooms for several hours after waxing. using harsh or detergent s

eyebrow shaping guidelines

1. space between the eyebrows should be equal to the width of the eye. 2. inner edge of the eyebrow should start above the nostril. to establish that point, hold a pencil to the side of the nose straight up to the eyebrow. 3. establish the length of the e

eyebrow tweezing guidelines

1. assemble materials; prepare workspace. 2. wash and sanitize hands. 3. cleanse the area to be tweezed. 4. analyze eyebrows; thick? thin?. 5. brush the hairs up to see the base. 6. hold skin taut, tweeze above and below eyebrow. 7. tweeze in an upward di

head hair loss

you can loose up to 100 hairs a day.

antiseptic preparation

sanitizes skin; removes buildup on body.

cornstarch or powder

buffers the skin from wax and prevents skin from lifting; absorbs any moisture remaining on skin.

soothing lotion

calms the skin after waxing.

wax

removes unwanted hair.

wax remover

removes wax residue from skin.

hair growth retardant

slows growth of hair after waxing.

eyebrow brush and comb

shape and groom the eyebrows.

gloves

protect your hands and skin.

headband and hairnet

holds hair out of the way.

long-handled cotton swabs

apply product such as soothing preparation, to small areas like eyebrows.

muslin or pellon (fiber)

removes wax and hair.

plastic bags

hold discarded materials.

small scissors

trim longer hair

sheets

protect facial bed; cover client.

tissues

aid application of products.

tweezers

remove stray hairs and shapes eyebrows.

wooden application sticks/spatulas

applies wax to skin.

hand-held mirror

allows client to view results.

equipment cleaner

removes wax, dirt and bacteria from the cart and other surfaces.

professional cart

holds all supplies and implements; can be moved to any location in the skin care center.

facial chair or bed

holds client for comfort.

wax warmer (pot)

melts and holds wax.

infection control and saftey guidelines

1. carefully read and follow manufactures instrucstions for products, implements, supplies, and equipment. 2. always test the temperatre of heated was on forearm before applying to client's skin. 3. do not wax eyelids, nipples, or inside of nose & ears. 4

contraindications of waxing

avoid waxing over areas with contraindications that may cause excessive irritation such as: skin conditions: varicose veins, unusually pronounced moles/warts, cuts, abrasions, wounds, open sores, active herpes, acne, skin diseases/disorders, sunburn, rash

client consultation prior to hair removal

should cover: medical history, present condition of his/her skin & health, safety & health of client is key component on choosing hair removal technique, ask about desired needs & goals, repeat back what you have heard until agreement is reached, assess a

five phases of service

phase one: greeting - phase two: ask, analyze, assess - phase three: agreement - phase four: delivery - phase five: completion.

greeting

phase one; how? welcome client; introduce yourself with firm handshake & direct eye contact. why? to break the ice; learn client's name; learn clues about client's personality; begin building rapport with client.

ask, analyze, assess

phase two: how? escort client to seating area & ask him/her to fill out client consultation form. in private preform more thorough consult. ask about client's skin concerns, observe skin, review medical history and medicines used. discuss skin care object

agreement

phase three: how? tell client result of skin evaluation and what condition their skin is in. treatments you recommend. explain in detail methods, products & equipment you will use. why? educate client about skin care & various products & services that can

delivery

phase four: how? ensure client's comfort during service. explain steps and actions that are taking place. commit to delivering the highest quality of service. why? to satisfy client's needs.

completion

phase five: how? gain feedback by asking how the client enjoyed the treatment. discuss home skin care regimen. suggest purchase of products. schedule next appointment. guid customer to front desk. thank him/her and say goodbye. the following week: follow

basic waxing preparation

prior to client arriving: >disinfect service area. > place protective covering on facial bed/chair. >cut removal strips to be used in advance - muslin or fiber strips may be used twice on the same client. >arrange antiseptic preparation or pre-wax solutio

basic waxing procedure

1. wash and sanitize hands (protective gloves) 2. drape client. PREPARE SKIN: 3. assess direction of the hair growth. 4. apply antiseptic preparation or pre-wax solution; lightly dust the area with cornstarch or powder (if recommended) APPLY WAX: 5. obtai

waxing completion

>offer to rebook next appointment. >recommend retail products for home care. >dispose of non-resusable materials used during the waxing treatment, replace used linens with fresh linens and arrange all products and implements in proper order. >disinfect yo

barbae folliculitis

also called ingrown hair; is a hair that grows from underneath into surrounding tissue rather than through the follicle out to the surface of the skin, resulting in a bump or inflammation. can also occur when the hair curls and continues growing back into

ingrown hair causes

1. predisposition: many clients will be prone to ingrown hair simply because of the stratum corneum and the coarseness of their hair. 2. improper waxing techniques: hair removal techniques need to be performed properly to avoid breaking off the hair as op

ingrown hair prevention

prevention: 1. make sure client exfoliates on a regular basis using a loofah or similar sponge while in the shower. 2. recommend alpha hydroxy acid or glycolic acid lotions or cremes 8-12 hours after treatment to promote cellular exfoliation at the openin

eyebrow shaping

well-shaped eyebrows can lift and open up eyes and project a rested, youthful and sophisticated appearance. consult with client thoroughly to agree on shape design. - keeping client's preference in mind follow the guidelines.