Salon Fundamentals Esthetics Ch. 7 Chemistry (continued)

Acid Balanced

balanced in the range of 4.5 to 5.5

Acid Mantle

the protective barrier to the outermost layer of skin

Acids

release a hydrogen ion and is positively charged. 0-7 on pH scale

Active Ingredients

ingredients responsible for production the desired effect

Aerosol

product packaged under pressure and blended with a propellant inside

Alkaline

release of hydroxide ions that are negatively charged. 7-14 on pH scale, aka base

Alpha Hydroxy Acid

AHA- glycolic, lactic

Alpha Lipoic Acid

ALA claimed to help aging cells increase energy production

Amino Acids

biochemical compounds consisting of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen and nitrogen that join to form proteins

Antibacterial

destroy bacteria that can cause undesirable effects on the skin (ex. benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, co Q10)

Antioxidants

ingredients used in certain types of treatment products to prevent inflammation and damage due to free radicals (ex. vitamin A and E derivatives, ginko biloba)

Atomic Number

indicates how many protons are in a single atom of the element

Atom

the smallest complete unit of an element

Beta Hydroxy Acid

when the carboxyl group is located on the second carbon atom of the chain (ex: salicylic acid)

Biochemistry

branch of science that deals with the chemicals related to life processes and their reactions within the body

Botanicals

natural or naturally derived ingredients extracted from plants.provide various anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, anti-irritant, antioxidant or conditioning effects (ex .green tea extract, willow bark extract)

Carbohydrates

biochemical compound that helps the body store energy and play a key role in metabolism (consists of carbon, hydrogen, oxygen)

Chelating Agents

ingredients added to a product to enhance the effectiveness of the preservative (ex disodium EDTA)

Chemical Bond

the forces that hold atoms together in compounds

Chemical Change

change in a substance that creates a new substance with different material characteristics from those of the original substance

Chemist

scientist who studies matter, it's properties and changes

Chemistry

scientific study of matter, the physical & chemical changes affecting matter and energy changes

Co-enzyme Q-10

antioxidant that occurs naturally in human cells

Coloring Agents

vegetable, mineral, or pigment dyes added to products to enhance the product's appearance ie.add color (ex. foundation, blush, lipstick)

Comedogenic

likely to block or clog pores and contribute to pimples (common ones: heavy emulsifiers, color, waxes and oils)

Comedogenicity

tendency to clog

Compound

formed by the union of two different elements; unique chemical and physical characteristics - more than 4 million

Cosmetics

Anything that is intended for use on the skin to cleanse, beautify, alter the appearance or promote attractiveness

Covalent Bond

bond in which two atoms are held together by sharing electrons

Cremes and Lotions

most common product types, emulsions to impart emolliency and moisturization to the skin

Cyclomethicone

non comedogenic emollient that gives products a silky feel

Dimethicone copolyol

makes products feel soft, especially sunscreens

Dimethicone

Gives products lubricity, "slip

carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur

elements involved with the formation of skin

Elements

basic units of matter that cannot be broken down into simpler substances by any chemical reaction (PURE) (ex. hydrogen and oxygen)

Emollients

oils and oil-soluble substances used to condition and soften the skin. usually found in concentrations between 2% and 10% in products (ex. waxes, silicone oils, vegetable oils)

Emulsion

a mixture of 2 or more non-mixable substances, united by a binder, such as oil and water. Forced together.

Energy

ability to do work to accomplish change

Enzyme

ingredients designed to dissolve keratin proteins on the surface of the skin

Enzymes

materials that dissolve and break down larger molecules into smaller ones

Fatty Acids

commonly used in cosmetic products such as cremes and lotions to keep them firm yet soft, and easy to apply. come from plant and animal sources (ex. caprylic acid, oleic acid, stearic acid)

Fatty Alcohol

fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen, used to increase the thickness of cosmetic products and provide moisture (ex. cetyl alcohol)

Fragrance

essential oils and other compounds used to create a unique scent. not usually listen individually on labels

Free Electron

an electron in the outermost orbit that is easily moved from its orbit

Free Radicals

chemically unstable molecules, caused by environmental pollutants and UV exposure

Gas

matter with definite weight, but indefinite volume and shape

Gel

product that has a thickening agent to increase its viscosity (thickness or density)

Hard Water

contains salts; ex. calcium and magnesium

Humectants

organic ingredients that bind water and deposit it onto the skin, normally found following water on the product label (ex. organic acids, urea, salts, honey)

Hydroxy Acids

organic acids that speed up natural exfoliation; from natural sources like fruits, sugar, and milk

Hypoallergenic

product is less likely to provoke an allergic reaction

Immiscible

solvents that don't easily mix together

Inorganic Chemistry

matter that was never living and does not contain carbon (ex. rocks)

Ionic Bond

bond that holds positive and negative ions together

Ions

charged atoms involved in the chemical reaction; attract or repel each other based on positive or negative charges

Kinetin

an essential growth factor that prevents premature aging

Lighteners

ingredients used to bleach or lighten areas of hyperpigmentation (ex. hydroquinone or kojic acid)

Lipids

biochemical compound that fills the intercellular spaces in the skin

Liquid

matter with definite weight, and volume but no shape

Logarithmic

each number on the pH scale increases by multiples of 10.

Matter

anything that occupies space

Miscible

solvents that easily mix together

Mixture

formed when 2 or more compounds are blended together physically, rather than chemically, creating a new product but retaining separate chemical characteristics

Molecular Weight

determined by amount of protons and neutrons

Molecule

smallest part of a compound that contains all of the chemical properties. Two or more of the same atoms joined by one or more chemical bonds

Monomers

basic building block molecules

Neutron

no electrical charge "neutrally charged

Non-Comedogenic

less likely to block or clog follicle

Nucleus

the dense core of an atom, made of protons and neutrons

Occlusive Barrier

protective or sealing barrier

Ointment

anhydrous substance, thick and heavy texture, based on a mixture of oils and waxes, normally the texture of a paste

Organic Chemistry

all matter that is now living or was alive at one time (contains carbon) (ex. animal, tree, people)

Oxidation

chemical reaction in which a substance loses an electron, and oxygen is acquired

Peptide Bond

a bond uniting two amino acids

Periodic Law

unifying concept used to organize elements and their similarities

pH

Potential of Hydrogen- unit of measurement that indicates whether a substance is acidic, neutral, or alkaline

Physical Change

change in matter, physical form is changed without creating a new substance possessing a distinct material composition (ex. water freezing to become ice cubes)

Poly Hydroxy Acids

molecules that contain several carboxyl groups in the same chain

Polymers

groups of monomers that bond together

Powder

finely ground solid mixed evenly with additional ingredients

Preservatives

maintain microbiological integrity or product quality during manufacturing, storage, and use by the consumer. ie. extends shelf life (citric acid, parabens)

Protein

biochemical compound that helps the body construct and renew itself (skin, hair, muscles, nerves and blood)

Protons

positive electrical charge

Reduction

substance gains an electron, and oxygen is released

Saturation Point

when a solute will no longer dissolve evenly in the solvent (ex. salt in water)

Silicones

ingredients derived from a silcone base

Soft Water

contains very few minerals

Solid

matter with definite weight, volume and shape

Solute

solid part of a solution

Solution

a mixture of 2 or more chemicals evenly distributed to form a complete and homogeneous dispersion (blended physically)

Solvent

liquid part of a solution

Sublimation

the process of a solid or gas changing states without being a liquid

Sunscreens

considered a drug product by FDA. used to block or absorb UV radiation emitted by sun (ex. zinc oxide)

Surfactants

have the ability to bind organic and inorganic matter to water (ex detergents, shampoo, facial cleansers)

Suspension

solid particles of pigments finely and evenly dispersed in a liquid base, with thickeners added to prevent settling (ex. liquid foundation)

Thickeners/Viscosity Modifier

ingredients that increase density in emulsions and gel-type products (ex. paraffin, beeswax, inorganic compounds)

Vitamins

skin renewal agents include antioxidants that can heal tissue and strengthen the skin, among other benefits.

solids, liquids, gases

three distinct forms of matter

Amount of naturally occurring elements

92

protons, neutrons, electrons

three particles of an atom

Electron

negative electrical charge

Hydrogen

has one electron and is the simplest atomic structure

proteins, carbohydrates, lipids

three major biochemical compound groups in the body

0-14

range on pH scale

pure distilled water

has a pH of 7, indicating an even balance between the concentration of hydrogen(+) and hydroxide(-) ions

water

universal solvent. capable of dissolving more substances than other other solvent. the only substances not soluble in water are organic substances

pH adjuster

acid, buffer or base used to adjust the product pH to a desired level (ex. citric acid, malic acid, hydroxide)

Stable Atoms

types of atoms that have evenly paired electrons in their outermost orbit shell

Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid)

Metabolism synthesis of hormones (eggs, fish, milk, whole grain cereal)

Vitamin A - Beta-Carotene

Antioxidant - protects skin from free radical damage - stored in the body

Vitamin A - Retinol

Increases skin elasticity, maintains good vision, builds bone

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid)

Helps heal wounds, boosts immune system, increases collagen

Vitamin D

Strengthens bones, helps prevent fractures

Vitamin E

Antioxident - fights heart disease, cancer, Alzheimer's, diabetes. Heals, hydrates, protects cells.

Vitamin K

Helps blood to clot. Anti-inflammatory.

Calcium

Builds and strengthens teeth and bones; affects muscle and nerve function.

Potassium

Electrolyte that stabilizes cells of the heart and nervous system. Regulates water and chemical balance; builds muscle.

Oxygen

most abundant element in the Earth's crust