Manufactured Fiber
Any fiber derived by a process of manufacture from a substance that point in the process is not a fiber
Generic names
Based on fiber chemistry and approved by FTC
Trade names
Names for fiber used in promotion and marketing
Types of Manufactured Fibers
1. Regenerated fibers
2. Synthetic fibers
Fiber spinning process
1. Raw material (pellets)
2. Dope/spinning solution
3. Extrusion through spinneret
4. Solidifying the fiber
5. Stretching and drawing
Pellets
Raw material that is converted into dope
Extrusion
Forcing or pumping the spinning solution through the tiny holes of a spinneret
Spinneret
Thimble-like nozzle made of platinum steel with tiny holes, each hole forms one filament fiber
Filament Fiber
Long continuous fiber
Filament Yarn
Fibers bunches and slightly twisted making yarns
Filament Two
Untwisted rope of thousands of filament fibers
Wet Spinning
-oldest process
-fiber solidifies when coagulated by bath
-requires washing and bleaching
-solvent can be re used
Dry Spinning
-direct process
-fiber solidifies by evaporation of solvent
-no washing or bleaching
-solvent can be recovered
Melt Spinning
-direct process
-least expensive
-fiber solidifies in cooling
-high spinning speed
-no solvent or washing
-fibers shaped like spinneret holes
-best method, good for environment
Fiber Modification
-size and shape of spinneret
-change molecular structure and crystallinity
-adding additives to enhance performance
-choice of spinning process
-combining 2 polymers within a single fiber
Change in Fiber Size
-size of opening of the spinneret
-stretching and drawing
-modifying the spinning technique
-splitting and separating the filaments
Example of Trilobal Shape
-widely used in Nylon and Polyester
-Uses spinneret with 3 triangularly arranged slits
-Produces fabric with silk like hand
-soil hiding capacity
-built in bulk without weight
Molecular structure and crystallinity modifications
-a controlled stretching immediately after extrusion produces high tenacity fibers
-chemical modification of the fiber polymer can increase the degree of polymerization
Additives
-delustering agents like titanium dioxide
-solution dyeing like colored pigments added to spinning solution
-whiteners and brighteners
-cross dyeing
-antistatic
-sunlight resistant
-flame resistant
-antibacterial
Biocompenet Fibers
Consisting of 2 polymers that are chemically different, physically different or both
Regenerated Fibers
-produced from naturally occurring polymers
-natural fibers are processed to form a fiber structures
-derived from the cellulose in cotton linter, wood pulp, protein
Rayon
-1st regenerated cellulosic fiber
-cross section: indented circular shape
-striations: lengthwise lines
-modal or bemberg are two trade names
-made from beechwood
Advantages of serrated shape
-when dyeing the fiber, the fiber surface area increases
-the affinity of rayon fiber to dyes is higher
Types of Rayon
-high wet modulus rayon
-cupa rayon
-vicose rayon
-WET SPINNING is used
Rayon Characteristics
-highly absorbent
-soft and comfortable
-easy to dye
-drapes well
-weak fiber that looses 50% of its strength when wet
-lowest elastic recovery
-low thermal retention
-Think of a beachy flowery shirt for men
Rayon uses
-Apparel
-Home furnishings
-Industrial uses: industrial products, medical surgical products, non woven products, tire cord, feminine hygiene products
Environmental Impact of Rayon
-produced from Wood Pulp
-the wood is cut from mature forests
-clear cutting/cutting old growth forests
-processing of wood pulp uses large quantities of acid and other chemicals
-recovery and recycle of chemical used in producing rayon are expensive
-dis
Lyocell
-prompted in part by Rayon's negative environmental impact
-solvent spinning: a modification of wet spinning is used to produce this
-solvent is recovered, purified and recycled
Lyocell Characteristics
-rounded cross section
-smoother longitudinal structure
-no serrated edge because the fiber does not collapse
-it is 100% cellulose
-Tencel is the tradename for this
Aesthetics of Lyocell
-Luster, length and diameter can be varied
Durability of Lyocell
-performs like cotton
-strongest of cellulosic fibers
-tendency to fibrillate
Comfort of Lyocell
-soft and smooth
-problems with static are NOT likely
-high absorbency
-thermal retention is low
Appearance Retention Lyocell
-resiliency is moderate
-dimensional stability is good
-no progressive shrinking
Acetate
-cellulosic derivative
-fiber cross section: Lobular or flower petal shaped
-contains very few hyxdroxl groups or none at all
-as a result they do not absorb existing dyes
-disperse dyes were developed for this purpose
Aesthetics of Acetate
-silk like luster
-made into fabrics that have good drape, body and luster
-maintains good white color
-pollution/ fume fading
Durability of Acetate
-weak
-poor resistance to abrasion
Comfort of Acetate
-subject to static buildup
-extremely soft
-no allergenic potential
-thermal retention is poor
Appearance Retention of Acetate
-not very resilient
-moderate dimensional stability
Azlon
-generic fiber from manufactured fiber
-the fiber-forming substance is composed of any regenerated naturally occurring proteins
-for example, soy, peanut, milk and corn
Soy Silk
-made from products of the tofu making products
-the liquefied proteins are extruded into fibers which are then spun and processed like any other fiber
Corn Fiber
-Fiber from corn starch
-created by extracting the starch and then sugars from corn
Bamboo
-has natural antibacterial properties
-products are biodegradable
-the fabric breathes
Advantage of Bamboo
-Grows more than 1 meter a day
-requires no pesticides in growing
-requires 33% of the water cotton requires
-can be cut down and grown again
Disadvantages of Bamboo
Made in the same way as Rayon
Properties of Synthetic Fibers
-high sensitivity
-heat resistant
-glazing
-pilling
How to Minimize Pilling
use compact weaves, high yarn twist or plied yarns and longer staple fibers
Static Electricity
-generated by friction when a fabric is rubbed against itself and other objects
-builds up more in cold and dry regions
Oleophilic
-Fibers that have low moisture absorption, but usually have a high affinity for oil and greases
-oil stain are very difficult to remove from synthetic fibers
Melt Spinning
1. Pellets or chips are melted and pumped into the spinneret
2. Melt pumped through the spinneret emerges in strands of fibers which is then cooled by cold air
3. Drawing and stretching is used to orient and develop the mechanical properties of the fibers
Nylon Properties
-excellent elasticity
-light weight
-high strength
-resistance to chemicals
-resistant to abrasion
-can be heat set
Problems with Nylon
-static buildup
-poor comfort to skin and poor hand
-low resistance to sunlight
Fiber Structure of Nylon
-round cross section
-longitudinal view looks like a clear glass rod
-changing the fiber shape is useful where performances is influenced by fiber shape
-example: trilobal or square with voids has good soil hiding characteristics in carpets
Aesthetics of Nylon
-hosiery and knitted fabrics
-drape can be varied depending on end use
Durability of Nylon
-elongation, resilience, abrasion resistance, high tenacity
-seat belts
-tire cords
-ballistic cloth
-carpets
Comfort of Nylon
-low absorbency, light weight
-used in wind and water resistant clothing
-action wear and sports gear
Appearance retention of Nylon
-compressional resiliency
-shrinkage resistance
Care of Nylon
-easy care garments
-color scavenger
-dries quickly
-static buildup
-resistant to attacks of insect and fungi
Aesthetics of Polyester
-silk like
-microfibers are versatile and durable
-microfibers drape and has a exciting hand
Durability of Polyester
-abrasion resistance is excellent
-strength is excellent
-better sunlight resistance
Products Polyester is used
-satin fabric
-velour jacket
-jacket lining Tricot
-ski pants
Comfort of Polyester
-low absorbency
-moderate thermal retention
-static buildup
Appearance Retention of Polyester
-elongation is low, resiliency is high
-resists wrinkles for most part
-high dimensional stability
Care of Polyester
-excellent abrasion resistance
-low absorbency, dries quickly
-resiliency minimizes wrinkling
-tends to retain oils
-bacterial odor (not goo for foundation garments)
Olefin
-Tyek is made by DuPont
-construction protection against water and moisture intrusion
-protective garments
-envelopes
Properties of Olefin
-strong
-resistant to abrasion
-chemically inert
-inexpensive
-thermoplastic but static resistant
-non absorbent but good mytr
-excellent resistance to acids, alkalis, insects and microorganisms
Acrylic
-cross section depending on spinning method (dry spinning: dog bone shape and wet spinning: lima bean like shape)
-longitudinal view is pitted and irregular surface
Properties of Acrylic
-soft and can be made bulky
-warm and lightweight
-moderate abrasion resistance, resiliency and durability
-staple acrylic has a wool like appearance
-does not absorb moisture but has good wicking ability
-good resistance to most chemicals except alkalis
Modacrylic
-creamy white
-cross section is dog bone or irregular shape
-used to furlike fabrics
Properties of Modacrylic
-elastic recovery superior to acrylic
-abrasion resistance same a acrylic
-warm and soft
-tendency to pill
-low absorbency
-moderate resiliecny and dimensional stability
Elastomeric Fibers
-natural or synthetic polymer
-which can be stretched repeatedly to at least twice its original length and returns to its original length
Power-stretch
fiber/fabric exhibits high retractive forces that mold or shape body
Comfort-stretch
the ability of fiber/fabric to elongate slightly as the body moves and recover significant portion of the elongation when stretching force is removed
Natural Rubber
-older elastomer
-least expensive
-it is obtained by coagulation of the latex from the rubber tree
-because of low dye acceptance, hand and appearance, rubber is covered by a yarn of another fiber in fabrics
Spandex
-has surperior strength and durability to rubber
-is first manufactured elastic fiber
-is delustered and is usually gray or white
-trade name is Lyrca
Properties of Spandex
-good dye ability of the fiber
-good strength
-eliminating cover yarn reduces cost and fabric weight
-most resistant to degration than rubber
-resistant to body oils, lotions, cosmetics
-thermoplastic
-resistant to dilute acids, bleaches, and dry cleaning
Nonprene
-synthetic rubber
-performance elastomers
-trade name used by DuPont
Properties of Nonprene
-resists degradation from sun, ozone, weather
-remains useful over a wide temp range
-displays outstanding physical toughness
-outstanding resistance to damage caused by flexing and twisting
-resist burning inherently
Other elastomeric Fibers
-fibers with chemical, heat or fire resistance
-elastoester
-elastrell-p
-Lastol
Flame Retardants
-materials that inhibit or resist the spread of fiber
-term used to describe the chemical substance applied to fabric
Flame resisting
Materials reduce the possibility of an incipient fire or flame from spreading and becoming a conflagration
-flame resistance is the characteristic of a fabric that causes its not to burn
Aramid
-nylon is a polyamide fiber
-is an aromatic polyamide fiber
-is a variant of nylon
-view is a dog bone or round
-trade names: Nomex, Kevlar, Conex, Fenilon
Characteristics of Aramid
-fiber maintains its shape and form in high temps
-demonstrates high tenacity and stretch resistance
-good resistance to most chemicals
-excellent impact of abrasion resistance
-difficult to dye
Nomex
-meta aramid
-used for flame retardant/protective clothing
-has resistance to heat and demonstrates combustion with low smoke generation
Kevlar
-para aramid
-29 used in body-armor under vests as it is relevantly lightweight, as well as bullet and knife resistance
Glass
-incombustible and does not burn
-problems of severe skin irritation
-raw materials for glass: Silica, limestone and sand
-the basis of textile grade glass fibers is Silica
-used in textile membranesL curtains, canopies, ironing board covers
Characteristics of Glass
-low elongation
-fibers are brittle and exhibit poor flex abrasion resistance (break when bent)
-fibers are very heavy
-non absorbent
-resistant to chemicals and sunlight
-glass flame proof and melts at 2400 F
Metal and Metallic fibers
-gold and silver have been used since ancient times and yarns to decorate fabric
-aluminized plastic yarns have recently replaced gold and silver via laminating and metalizing process
-embossing possible on a fabric that contains large amount of metal
-ir
Metal Fibers
-stainless steel
-copper
-aluminum
Novoloid
-outstanding flame resistant
-it carbonizes rather than melt, burn or fuse
-good resistance to sun
-inert to acids or organic solvents
-susceptible to highly alkaline substances
-used in protective clothing, chemical filters, gaskets and packing matierals
PBI
-does not burn or melt
-very low shrinkage when exposed to flame
-heat resistant apparel for firefighters, astronauts, fuel handlers, race car drivers, welders
-extensively used in aerospace application
Sulfar
-gold in color
-fiber that is highly resistant to acids and alkalis is not soluble to any know solvent below 200 C
-used in incinerator filter, rubber reinforcement, paper making felts, electrolysis membranes, protective clothing like firefighting suits
Saran
-chemical resistance to acids, alaklis, organ solvents
-stretch resistance
-moderate elongation, excellent elongation recovery
-does not support combustion
-excellent shape and size retention
-when exposed to flame, it softens and chars
Vinyon
-very sensitive to heat
-chemically stable
-used as bonding agents for rugs, papers
-used in wigs, flame retardant christmas tress, fishing lines, protective clothing
-vinly when used in film form
-house siding
-disks
Vinal
-not produced in the US
-flame retardant, used in protective clothing
-made in Japan and Germany
Eluoropoylmer
-Most common is PTFE
-Telfon-trade name
-Coating for cookware, soil resistant finish
-Goretex: trade name fabrics that have thin microporoous film
-win and liquid water resistant
-water vapor permeable
Carbon
All forms of carbon are highly stable (chemically inert)
-requiring high temp to react even with oxygen
-exceptional heat resistance
-does not ignite or melt
Melamine
-good to excellent resistance to UV light
-resistant to chemicals except concentrated acids
-heat stability and low flammability (resistant to high temperatures and competes with aramids)